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Thread: LiveScope Wiring

  1. #1
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    Default LiveScope Wiring


    At present I have 15’ of #8 wire run to my cranking battery. I’d like to see if a lithium battery located in the bow near the black box will enhance the screen display. Before buying a lithium battery it seems wise to try a Dewalt tool battery to compare views. My thought is to use THESE CONNECTIONS to switch from cranking battery to the Dewalt.

    Can I use a Dewalt 20v battery to power a Garmin 1042, black box, & LVS34?

    With the connection linked above I could easily switch power sources to compare the views.

    is this a good plan or should I consider something else?

    Thanks,
    Danny

  2. #2
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    Sir, mine is rigged with my 1022 on the cranking battery and my LS black box powered by 2 Dewalt 20v 10ah batteries using Seelite adapters. Check the amp draw of the graph plus the LS to figure out how many hours you will get out of the Dewalt.

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    If you are wanting to power it all together I think I would go with a lithium. Eventually I will change my boat over to all lithium batteries.
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    Don’t use a 20volt battery to power your Garmin head, it will burn it up.


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    johnboy1, are you sure about that? Garmin's specs says 10-32Vdc.
    Garmin GPSMAP(R) 1042xsv with transducer | Marine Chartplotter

    Garmin Black Box specs say 10-32V
    GLS 10 Sonar Module | GARMIN

    Sure don’t want to burn anything up.

    I’ve in places that you should use over 18V, but don’t see that in the specs.

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    From what I’ve read the black box can handle the 20 volts but the head unit can’t. You may want to check with Garmin before you make that connection.


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    The biggest issue I see as far as the connectors is going to be trying to splice the 8ga from your battery to the 12ga wire on the connector. You will probably need to find a 8ga butt splice and double over the 12 ga wire to fill the cavity enough to get a good crimp on the 12ga wire. Make sure the end coming from the battery has the Red wire covered. Each of the cables has a male and female side for the red and black wires. You want the red female(enclosed by rubber) socket on the battery side that applies to which ever battery you are using cranking or Dewalt. The male red pin would be on the Graph side.

    I'm only running mine on 12V, I have seen discussion on Bass Boat Central and Facebook about using the drill batteries, I haven't paid much attention to them since it's not what I'm doing. Like you I looked at the Garmin Specs it says the below. I would think that if 20V was burning up the graphs there would be million of topics about it. I haven't seen any topics about that that I can recall.

    If it's happpening there should be lots of topics that a goodle search would show.

    POWER INPUT 10-32 V
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    Quote Originally Posted by zekepa View Post
    The biggest issue I see as far as the connectors is going to be trying to splice the 8ga from your battery to the 12ga wire on the connector. You will probably need to find a 8ga butt splice and double over the 12 ga wire to fill the cavity enough to get a good crimp on the 12ga wire. Make sure the end coming from the battery has the Red wire covered. Each of the cables has a male and female side for the red and black wires. You want the red female(enclosed by rubber) socket on the battery side that applies to which ever battery you are using cranking or Dewalt. The male red pin would be on the Graph side.

    I'm only running mine on 12V, I have seen discussion on Bass Boat Central and Facebook about using the drill batteries, I haven't paid much attention to them since it's not what I'm doing. Like you I looked at the Garmin Specs it says the below. I would think that if 20V was burning up the graphs there would be million of topics about it. I haven't seen any topics about that that I can recall.

    If it's happpening there should be lots of topics that a goodle search would show.

    POWER INPUT 10-32 V
    A small terminal strip with fork or ring terminals would make the connection easily
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    I always solder the connections. Thanks for the suggestions.

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    No solder on a boat! Vibrations can crack it and cause issues down the line

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