Thread: LiveScope Wiring

Two quotes from Google articles below. I personally use crimp connectors, the same kind that we use on helicopters for work, but if you want to solder go for it. I personally feel it's easier to crimp than solder. The type of boats we have don't fall under the ABYC rules, they are not big enough.

"According to ABYC, all connections between connector and wire need to be mechanical crimped. Basically, you need to crimp the connector onto the wire. It does not hurt to solder the connector as well, but it isn't necessary."

"If you’re still wondering if soldering is better, remember that American Boat & Yacht Council Standards exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations."

"American Boat & Yacht Council Standards exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations." (quote zekepa)

JMO, anyone that solders a connection and then DOESN'T cover it some way, is just trying to burn their boat up. again JMO

I agree not covering a connection is asking for trouble. Hence when commenting on the plug in connectors above, I advised to make sure the Red coming from the battery was enclosed in the rubber of the connector.

Years ago as a young man in the Navy we were told that soldering is an electrical connection. Crimping is considered a mechanical connection, that also makes an electrical connection. Back when circuit cards had big transistors and some wire connections when soldiering the wires the NAVAIR standard was to wrap the wire 180 to 270 degrees around the post or hook that it was being connected to. Personally I have no problem with a "good" solder connection, it's just that a lot of new people I get at my job don't know how to make a good solder connection. It's much easier to teach them how to make a good crimp than it is to train them to make good solder connections.

Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman

"American Boat & Yacht Council Standards exclude solder as the sole means of electrical connection for wire terminations." (quote zekepa)

JMO, anyone that solders a connection and then DOESN'T cover it some way, is just trying to burn their boat up. again JMO

Only solder means solder and shrinkwrap.

You need a mechanical connection like butt connector with solder, so if the solder joint ever cracks it is still held in place securely.

Sent from my SM-A516U using Crappie.com mobile app

Originally Posted by Kevin22

Only solder means solder and shrinkwrap.

You need a mechanical connection like butt connector with solder, so if the solder joint ever cracks it is still held in place securely.

Sent from my SM-A516U using Crappie.com mobile app

I didn't see shrink wrap even mentioned there

I try to use the solder filled butt connectors whenever I can. But like mentioned earlier, it gets tricky when trying to splice together different gauge wires.

I also do like using both negative and positive bus bars. For the positives, I like to run an overkill primary wire from the battery + and put on a big >= 30A blue seas re-settable breaker (that also doubles as a disconnect) on it and then run to a blue seas fuse block to feed and individually protect each circuit. I wouldn't think running the garmin electronics off of that would cause any interference issues but it may also be overkill for a 20V system where all thats being powered is the black box and head unit.

i dont want to get off the specific topic but i had Garmin Live scope and unit connected to #8 wire directly to 54AM lithium. I then purchased a new boat and moved all my electronics over. I used the Sea Clear wiring harness for the connection. My live scope screen is significantly better on the new boat. Not even the same picture.