Thread: Knowledgeable electrical folks?

Originally Posted by rojoguio

Couple of things, I hold a USCG Unlimited Chief Engineers License so this was a big part of earlier life. First the type of wire you run should be Tinned DC wire, lots of little strands to prevent Counter EMF. Stranded AC wire or Automotive grade will have a higher resistance to electron flow. Second is the terminals used, you want Silver plated Copper only. To further reduce voltage drop after crimping solder them. Adhesive lined Shrink Tubing applied to a bare soldered terminal is a Top Shelf way to terminate. Back to front like you are running 10 gauge wire is the minimum size I ran for electronics on these 24ft Bay Boats when in my shop for a T-Top. I run a single pair then install sub-distribution equipment in the bow. Blue Sea Systems fuse bus with ground distribution is all I use they come with a clear Cover/Guard. Sum of the voltage drops equals source voltage, wire quality & size - termination quality - and in some cases Induction can lead in good direction or bad. You don't want your supply wire to run next to the trolling motor supply wire due to Induction. Anytime I have had to run supply lines next to DC Motor supply lines shielding over the wire must be used.

Dang now I’m second guessing using what I have
It’s definitely stranded ac wire.
I should be good on trolling motor though, it’s on the complete other side by itself


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Originally Posted by rojoguio

Couple of things, I hold a USCG Unlimited Chief Engineers License so this was a big part of earlier life. First the type of wire you run should be Tinned DC wire, lots of little strands to prevent Counter EMF. Stranded AC wire or Automotive grade will have a higher resistance to electron flow. Second is the terminals used, you want Silver plated Copper only. To further reduce voltage drop after crimping solder them. Adhesive lined Shrink Tubing applied to a bare soldered terminal is a Top Shelf way to terminate. Back to front like you are running 10 gauge wire is the minimum size I ran for electronics on these 24ft Bay Boats when in my shop for a T-Top. I run a single pair then install sub-distribution equipment in the bow. Blue Sea Systems fuse bus with ground distribution is all I use they come with a clear Cover/Guard. Sum of the voltage drops equals source voltage, wire quality & size - termination quality - and in some cases Induction can lead in good direction or bad. You don't want your supply wire to run next to the trolling motor supply wire due to Induction. Anytime I have had to run supply lines next to DC Motor supply lines shielding over the wire must be used.

Hence the reason I only use Ancor marine wire and Ancor marine heat shrinkable connectors on EVERYTHING in my boat. I also have 2 Blue Seas fuse boxes. I also have 3 amperage/voltage monitors, one on my livescope lithium, one on my trolling motor lithiums in series, and one for later use. Along with battery meters on my two AGM Optima Blue tops (one for cranking, and the other is for lights, pumps, stereo system), and on my two lithiums for my ghost trolling motor. I can see at a glance if there is an issue with any of the batteries. Plus everything is switched. I went way overkill, but I did it right the first time and won't have to do it again.

I am a more is better person when it comes to wiring. Within reason of course. In my case my trolling motor is within reach of my battery. At one time I used a small stern mount motor so I ran #8 wire from battery towards the bow to the stern. it ran my trolling motor and my depth finder. My boat is a 14 footer so the wire is only about 12 feet in length or so. Having a little tinny and a 9.9 outboard I take any weight into consideration, plus I already had the wire so no extra cost was involved. lol
I am including a link here that may help you.
Voltage Drop Calculator - Inch Calculator
knowing your full load amps is very important.

Voltage with no load does not equal voltage under load on the wire. For the distance, I think that 10ga marine wire run to the battery on circuit separate from the main fuse panel should still be fine for a couple of fishfinders and have only a 3% voltage drop. Wires have a built-on resistivity that causes footage reduction at distance, which is why you need such thick wire to overcome. The wire at the fuse panel and many lights and accessories are rated for 10% drop instead of 3%, which is why you see the drop that you are seeing.

Getting your water sled ready for Crankfest Jeff?

Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie

Getting your water sled ready for Crankfest Jeff?

Yes Sir, hope to get some practice in before then
Besides all this wiring, I’ve got to replace bunk boards on trailer.
Gosh I work on this thing more than I fish in it!


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Think I’m good to go now, thank you for all the folks that gave advice.
Powered everything up for test run, have less than 2% drop everywhere.
More like 1 1/2%. I took a whole bunch of length out of my circuits, heavier wire, eliminated a handful of splices, and bypassed my factory dash switches and fuse block. I think that was a major part of my problem, boat is 23 years old, and even new I don’t think they imagined the kind of load I have now. But everything is cut off with my main battery disconnect, and fused within a few inches of the battery connection.


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