Battery question for Livescope

[Orion_70]

Hi Guys, Making my livescope into a portable unit so I can move between the bay boat and the pontoon. will be using a setup like (Flefly YouTube)
I saw he was using a 10ah LiFePo.. I'm thinking that's not enough battery, needs to be a 20 ah or above.. So is going with a lithium the way to go, or stick with AGM
The 20ah AGM is around 12 lbs.. 20 ah LiFePo is just shy of 6, but 5x the cost... Are the Lithiums worth it in the long run? I don't think weight would be a deal breaker for me ( I could just lose the 6 lbs)
What brand battery would you recommend? Has anyone already done this setup??

[jawjatek]

Before I ponied up the cash for a LiFePO4 50 Ah Ionic, I was (and still do sometimes) using this battery: Duracell Ultra 12V 35AH Deep Cycle AGM SLA Battery - SLADC12-35J at Batteries Plus Bulbs

35 AH, a little heavy, but runs a 102sv and a PLS 6+ hours.

[MikeF]

My 2 cents

Similar system for 2 boats but I just added a power connection on each boat to plug into the box.

Each boat has an onboard charger so no recharge worries.

Is there a situation where you would need the portable power supply?

If you are going to mount the graph on top of the box, the heavier AGM would make it less prone to falling over.

Outside of the weight difference, 20AH is 20AH ,so that boils down to just cost and convenience.

[Orion_70]

The pontoon battery would be right by it, power plug for that would be easy, no onboard charger, need to put one on it
Bay boat would be quite a run, but may be good too
Have 4 batteries on that boat, only a 2 bank charger for tm...crank and electronics batteries are in back separate, I either need to put another 2 bank charger on them or find a 4 bank and do some wiring been just hooking the electronics battery to a separate charger
Mounting the garmin to box would save me from having to make another mounting system for the graph
More decisions I guess...

[Orion_70]

MikeF, what kind of power connection did you add on the boat? I think I'll go this route.. I've got wire hanging around, I just need to look at the connection ports. I'm assuming a 2 pin port and plug for both or is there a better option/recommendation?
My battery is in the back of the 22 ft bay boat, I'll run 8 ga. for LS, and 10 ga for the Garmin?

[MikeF]

Many ways to do it.

Depends on the boat layout.

The links are just examples.

Both my boats have a inline 8 ga maxi fuse at battery with a switch feeding a fuse panel.
I feed the livescope and graph with 10 ga from the fuse panel.


Robot Check


Battery Switches | bep


Robot Check


The 2 conductor connections can be anything from a Tmotor plug to insulated spade connections.



Robot Check

Robot Check


Really depends on what you have to work with as far as space and access.
In both boats I have a fuse panel mid ship fed by 8 ga from a fused /switched connection at the battery.
You may have to run separate leads which just adds more fuse/switches.


Just make sure you fuse the run from the battery, at the battery and again at the leads to the equipment.

Good luck with the project


The links work but show robot check.
Not sure why.

[Jiggin john]

Jawjatek, will the Duracell battery you talk about be good for just running panoptix? My Garmin 93sv will be run to my starting battery, my boat already has wiring for that at the bow. If it will work how long will it get on a charge and what charger do you use for it? Thanks for any help you can give.

[gobbler]

They both must have the same power source infact you need to twist your power wires together to get the exact same connection

[jawjatek]

Jawjatek, will the Duracell battery you talk about be good for just running panoptix? My Garmin 93sv will be run to my starting battery, my boat already has wiring for that at the bow. If it will work how long will it get on a charge and what charger do you use for it? Thanks for any help you can give.

Hang on a sec while I shake up the magic 8-ball... just kidding. I presume you mean running just the GLS10 box on the batt? So, ball park 35/5 = 7 hours. Approximately. I charge with a Noco G7200 and, I confess, I never timed it from a fully run down condition - I've never run it down to where anything shut off, but I have seen the Garmin showing 11.8V after a long day. I hook it up when I get home, and after supper (a few hours) it is fully charged. I also use the same Noco to charge the Ionic 50 Ah lithium, and that also takes a couple hours at the most. Max charging current is 7.2A, so worst case charge time is (ball-park) 35/7 = 5 hours. I use a Dual Pro mounted in the boat for the TM batteries, but haven't decided on a 3-output boat-resident charger for the 2 AGM TM batts and a Lithium electronics batt. Just gonna use what I have for now; since I garage my boat, its not a big deal. HTH

[Roy]

I run my black box and my Ultra 122 Livescope system 8 hours plus off of a single 35AH AGM battery with no issues. I think the lowest I've seen the voltage drop to is 11.9. It is really a pretty small battery. It sits right beside my black box in a small compartment in the bow of my Lund. I would definitely recommend connecting both the black box and the unit to the same power source and not the cranking battery. I've been running my Livescope system this way for the last year without any issuses.