Thread: X-mas tree w/ cinderblocks question

Sir, at CJ, due to ODNR and COE restrictions until recently we were REQUIRED to rig the "C" trees as laydowns once they water logged, plus we had a "hidden" agenda to create semi horizontal spawning cover to help CJ`s struggling yellow perch population to explode (which incidentally seems to have succeeded VERY well ). Generally we would get "2cnds" blocks with mars, cracks on 1 end, chips, ect at about a 6 or 7:1 ratio of 8" for the majority and 10"ers for the extra tall 1s. An 8"er weights 32 pds, a 10"er weights 40 pds, and have sank a 8` "C" tree on top of a 10" brush block ("BB") called a "super". Admittedly awkward to handle, but with 4-6` osage orange or locust limbs that will last 15+ yrs stuffed into the block, WORTH it. The 1 critical thing: when you secure them make CERTAIN the tree trunk is cleared of lower limbs on 1 side and secure both ends of the block TIGHTLY to the trunk ! When you get done, lift the cut end of the trunk; if the block has ANY slack or is loose at ALL, RETIE it. In areas with wave action (windward shores) or current this is CRITICAL...and YES, they will work ! Try putting them in lines shallow to deep; a NICE touch is a couple of PVC attractors on the deepest ends...(evil laughter sound effect here !) TRUST us...After all, we`ve only placed 2,000+ of them...so far.

so one cinderblock should take care of a 4-7ft tree is placed in the middle?

Been going through the neighborhood stocking up on trees. Got 15 from just my neighbors, going to make another run tonight.

Some folks tie an empty gallon milk jug to the top to make it sit upright. I have no idea which way works best. Heard to many different opinions. But either way is better than none.

I've heard that as well just not sure how well it works.

Depends on how deep they are; a milk jug will get squashed flat (implode) at <10 fow. A VHD container like a hot water flushed out antifreeze jug with the cap tightened on with vice grips might work better. To give you an idea at 30 fow a basketball implodes...as far as the trees clear 18" on 1 side of the cut end of the trunk. Stack 2 blocks atop each other. Use a 30" long piece of VHD weed eater line and put a loop in the end, and lasso the "C" tree trunk 14-18" from the cut end. Add another 30" piece of the VHD weed eater line 6" from the cut end. Put the cleared side of the trunk onto the top block and adjust it so the trunk is FLAT to the block; moving the top block 1/2 way off the other and slightly angling it may help. (WARNING ! DO NOT drop the block onto your foot...) Take the loose end of the piece at 14-18" up the trunk thru the hole of the block, back thru the original end loop and wrap the tree trunk once before final tying back to that loop again. Tie the lower piece the same way. LIFT the cut end of the tree...if there is ANY slack, slop, looseness, set it down and RETIE it TIGHTER ! Add any floats then add LOTS of water...BTW, have cut off branches in the middle off in a ring before, results were inconclusive...TRUST us ! Just do 1 line shallow to deep...you will LIKE the "results" !

Yep, 1 block will lay them down....remember that laydowns normally attract smaller fry, minnows, bottom fish... Crappie MOSTLY prefer vertical cover whether it's dense or larger spaced cover....but, they will move to laydowns to feed if they are placed close to their "home base"!

Placed one in my pond last year, stuck the tree trunk through one of the holes in the block and tied off well. tossed the tree off the dock. tree stayed vertical for prolly 6 months, then laid down.

I drill a hole through the base of each tree then run a plastic coated cable through that and attach to a 5 gal. bucket filled with concrete that I place a eye bolt in. Generally tie 3 trees together at one time. They land however they land.