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Thread: what is the absolute best cover to drop

  1. #11
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    skeetbum is offline Crappie.com Legend - Moderator Jig Tying Forum * Crappie.com Supporter
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    I have limited experience dropping cover but read and gather all the info I can. With what you're trying to do, were it me, I would start with 'boo. I think it was Jerry Blake that did a post about how he gets it done and was very successful with it. Easy to gather, easy to work with and easily unsnagged when fishing it. He used 10 or 12 pieces of boo 10' in length, cut just below a knuckle to help it stay in the concrete. 50lbs of pre measured dry concrete goes in each bucket. Allowing them to spread in the bucket makes them cover a good area each. Keeping the buckets from tipping while the crete sets is important and, to my thinking, the hardest part. Digging holes to put the buckets in while curing is the cheapest way to get this done. Don't over water the mix, and let them dry a couple of days before trying to lift them by the stalk of boo, or they stand a chance of loosening or coming out. Good luck with it, the kids will have a great time with this project.
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    A quick nod to the fruit limb `suggestion; for some reason they do decay faster than nut bearing limbs but SEEM to be better overall...

  3. #13
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    Eagle 1 is online now Crappie.com Legend and Mississippi Moderator
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    get an old box spring (bed) , burn it to get all the cloth/foam/ect . cut two acres of bamboo to pull through it till you can't get another one to go ! best I ever used .

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    eagle good idea for sure , but what kind of barge to u use to sink them with. Boo is great , but for me Fruit tree's and more fruit tree's. I like to not put it on the bottom but suppend it with cable or chain about 2 foot off the bottom. I'm talking 6-8 foot of water only...

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    im mighty surprised nobody has said wax myrtle. That is the best stuff in the world for crappie. One concrete block will sink a pile big as a house and it will stay there with fish on it for 4-6 years. We put a lot of that in here at Clarks Hill. Cant beat it!!

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    Have honestly never heard of it before...

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    In short, Wax Myrtle is deer resistant, heat and drought tolerant and grows fast in even poor soil. What more could you want in a carefree shrub?

    If a partition or screen is your objective, then Wax Myrtle performs flawlessly. This shrub, with its dense foliage and quick-growing nature can easily be planted in multiples and shaped into a privacy hedge with occasional pruning.

    With proper training, the Wax Myrtle also serves well as a small accent tree. This plant’s foliage and berries are pleasingly fragrant, making it a great addition to your outdoor living space.

    The Wax Myrtle blooms in the spring with tiny yellow-green flowers that are daintily aromatic.

    Female Myrtle’s will bear fruit berries that grow in clusters, and are green with an attractive bluish-white wax coating that lends them a vaporous gray appearance. The fruit matures in the fall and remains throughout winter, attracting a multitude of birds.

    As a point of interest, the Wax Myrtle is also known as a Bayberry, because the wax can be separated from the fruit in boiling water to make fragrant bayberry scented candles. If you are crafty and enjoy making candles, this plant is a must have.

    Known for its adaptable nature, the Wax Myrtle will put up with moist or dry soil and even grows well in infertile soils, but you’ll get a truly crowning specimen with a bit of proper watering and fertilizer.

    Wax Myrtles grow in either full sun or partial shade, and enjoy quite a lengthy life span. These plants are so trouble-free they practically take care of themselves.

    Myrtle is “green” in more ways than one, as it returns nitrogen to the soil and organically repels insects. Clip a few sprigs of this evergreen and place them around your closet or inside dresser drawers for a spicy hint of bayberry--you’ll never buy another commercially-sold sachet again.

    These fast-growing shrubs can grow as much as 5 feet per year, and reach mature heights upwards of 20 feet with an equivalent spread. So if shade is your goal, this tree certainly fits that bill.

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    Learned something new today !

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    Bamboo last a long time and can be handled by less people. Sinking hardwood limbs takes a lot more blocks. Which limits what you can carry in your boat or whatever your using. I have had great results from just sticking bamboo straight into the mud ,basically making them a stake bed. And the foliage gave the small fish plenty of cover. A patch of 25-30 stalks , and you've made a refuge for all kinds of underwater creatures. Wish we had access to more bamboo than we have around here.
    Hopefully you'll find what works best for you Time wise and help wise. Good luck and post some pics or tell us what you choice to use. Making a nice crappie bed is really fun. Or that's what I keep telling myself Lol.
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  10. #20
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    I agree that boo is easy to handle and last a while but how do you stick boo in the mud in 20 ft of water? If I put it in shallow water where everybody can see it, well, everybody else is fishing it when I get there. I have sunk it in buckets before but didn't have a whole lot of luck. Maybe I didn't sink enuf buckets of it at one drop.

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