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Thread: why fish cribs work and why they fail

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    Default why fish cribs work and why they fail




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    What works in some shallow fertile lakes may not nessararily work well in deep clear lakes. I have built nearly 400 in our local lake which is shallow and dingy. Pallet stakebeds built with 2 to 3' height stakes in 6 to 8' water produces well here. I always felt a solid bottom like a pallet helps on mucky bottom as most of our waters are.
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    You said it Nimrod, different applications for different water conditions. Eric states that the conditions change in various types of water. Your stained water like mine here at home, holds fish shallower than other lakes in the area. When muck is all we have, go with it! Glad your years of efforts are paying off!


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    Agreed. Am talking to a septic tank maker with 3 bad tank bottoms...figure these have 3` tall sides. If can stuff them with WELL secured (weighted ) LONG lasting dense limbs held about 1` over the inside of these tanks AND can get them to float 2000`...

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    Thanks for sharing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowellhturner View Post
    Agreed. Am talking to a septic tank maker with 3 bad tank bottoms...figure these have 3` tall sides. If can stuff them with WELL secured (weighted ) LONG lasting dense limbs held about 1` over the inside of these tanks AND can get them to float 2000`...
    Most anything will hold fish but if you get the brush anchored to them it would be good. Are they concrete tanks ?
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    Yes. Figuring putting locust limbs in them raised about 1` off the bottom of the tank with glued cement blocks and gluing blocks under them to give a space under them for a while, until they "settle". Had thought of using the same glue to put 20 or so 10 hole red bricks holes horizontal in them. Biggest concern will be SAFELY floating them out with a plywood "skirt" to avoid them prematurely "swamping" during the tow on out...IF this works, these 3 will be our BADDEST "attractors EVER...The COE is shaking their heads on THIS 1, but seems willing to let us try UPON the condition that, IF it sinks in the Main boat ramp we HAVE to remove it...wondering if we can SAFELY do this...the tank maker fishes and says "YES", so long as the plywood "skirt is strong and atleast 24" above the edge of the tank and the waves are not more than 18" high and we go SLOW with the tow. Get it out, knock a hole in a corner with a spud bar, and let it fill...wonder how long it will take to have fish on/ in it in 16 fow? I`d guess 20 minutes...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowellhturner View Post
    Yes. Figuring putting locust limbs in them raised about 1` off the bottom of the tank with glued cement blocks and gluing blocks under them to give a space under them for a while, until they "settle". Had thought of using the same glue to put 20 or so 10 hole red bricks holes horizontal in them. Biggest concern will be SAFELY floating them out with a plywood "skirt" to avoid them prematurely "swamping" during the tow on out...IF this works, these 3 will be our BADDEST "attractors EVER...The COE is shaking their heads on THIS 1, but seems willing to let us try UPON the condition that, IF it sinks in the Main boat ramp we HAVE to remove it...wondering if we can SAFELY do this...the tank maker fishes and says "YES", so long as the plywood "skirt is strong and atleast 24" above the edge of the tank and the waves are not more than 18" high and we go SLOW with the tow. Get it out, knock a hole in a corner with a spud bar, and let it fill...wonder how long it will take to have fish on/ in it in 16 fow? I`d guess 20 minutes...
    No worries about it moving or deterorating after you get it in place. Hope it works for ya. Try to post a photo story about the whole process please.
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    Will have to use 6X 14" x8" cap blocks for the legs; an trying to work on the plywood "skirt" attached with Hildy gun anchors. Am no accredited civil engineer but using the adhesively glued on 10 hole red bricks will allow us to tie off the limbs with plastic coated steel cable and clamps. the glued on 10 hole bricks will also (hopefully) allow us to create the empty space under the attached brush. The real debate is whether the bricks will successfully withstand the buoyancy of the brush; I say if we use the holes right next to the tank walls, yes. Several persons are thinking we will not be able to even slowly tow them out at all...guess there`s only 1 way we will ever know...I still say it will.

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