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Thread: '87 Skeeter Strada F120 Rehabilitation

  1. #91
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    I’ve never used Advantech on a boat but I did build quite a few beehive tops out of it when I was keeping bees. I left one of them unpainted and used it for 2 years before I quit beekeeping and it was still as solid as a rock. It had gotten a little “fuzzy” looking but was otherwise in great shape. I used marine plywood to hold a shooting house and within 5 years it showed a lot of weather wear. Choosing between those I’d go with Advantech
    Thanks skunked again thanked you for this post

  2. #92
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    Atimm693- thank you, I'll check them.

    Partially framed the deck extension out. Plan on putting two lids on the extension.

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    Ignore the curvy cut plywood on the front deck, it was used to get the proper height for the framing.


    For moving the three trolling batteries midship, in order to do this, more height is needed than the original floor will allow. About 3.5". Im thinking one of two things. - -
    1. Build a box, think of a transmission hump in a car. The passenger would not have much foot room though, and their right leg/ankle would be resting against the side of the box.
    2. Raise the floor in the cockpit area, from where it was originally. I put a 2*4 on the floor, and it looks like that would work.

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    The picture with my foot, that is the passenger side.

    Thoughts?? Other ideas ?
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.

  3. #93
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    FurFlyin - just saw your post. That's exactly what is drawing me to use it. I've heard good things about it's durability in the weather.
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.
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  4. #94
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    After ripping out, and redoing the deck extension (3 or 4 times), I think I finally like it. Used 1/2" ply for the compartment "dividers", recessed the 2x2 frame, the ply sits inside the top 2x2. More support that way?

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    1/2" ply for the "headwall" of the extension.

    For the port side box, I plan on making something to hold those 3700 boxes upright. I found where some used aluminum angle.
    The middle is deep enough for two pummel style millennium seats. I have one, so I'll probably keep it and life jackets there. The starboard box, I put totes for soft plastics.
    Everything is subject to change though !
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.
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  5. #95
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    As for putting the trolling motor batteries under the floor, in the cockpit area...... Not sure yet on that one.
    I did some more measuring. Came up with three possibilities -

    1. Raise the floor for the cockpit area. A 2x4 sitting on edge would give the needed height, plus plywood for the floor. The bad thing with that, is how high your knees would be when sitting. Also, how much closer knees are to the steering wheel.

    2. Make a hump, to get the extra height for the batteries.
    The con to this, the passengers right ankle would be against this hump. Not to mention, how small the passengers "floor" would be.
    The pro to either of these, aside from getting weight forward, the step up to the front deck wouldn't be as high. I'm leery of putting the batteries where the pummel seat is, in the picture, if that would have the batteries to close to the bow.
    There is room in the transom area, to move the batteries forward some, so there not against the transom.

    3. I just thought of this, while typing, make the hump the same height as the driver's and passenger seats. However, with this, the passengers right knee would rest against the box. And their footing area would be small. Uuggghhhh
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by skunked again View Post
    As for putting the trolling motor batteries under the floor, in the cockpit area...... Not sure yet on that one.
    I did some more measuring. Came up with three possibilities -

    1. Raise the floor for the cockpit area. A 2x4 sitting on edge would give the needed height, plus plywood for the floor. The bad thing with that, is how high your knees would be when sitting. Also, how much closer knees are to the steering wheel.

    2. Make a hump, to get the extra height for the batteries.
    The con to this, the passengers right ankle would be against this hump. Not to mention, how small the passengers "floor" would be.
    The pro to either of these, aside from getting weight forward, the step up to the front deck wouldn't be as high. I'm leery of putting the batteries where the pummel seat is, in the picture, if that would have the batteries to close to the bow.
    There is room in the transom area, to move the batteries forward some, so there not against the transom.

    3. I just thought of this, while typing, make the hump the same height as the driver's and passenger seats. However, with this, the passengers right knee would rest against the box. And their footing area would be small. Uuggghhhh
    What kind of batteries are you running? Perhaps you could run AGMs and lay them on their side? Might take less room that way.

  7. #97
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    Lead acid, 27 series, three for the trolling motor. Would like to run AGM's, not enough money for those.
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.

  8. #98
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    Sorry gents, I've been slacking! My apologies ! ! !
    I was all set to rivet the top cap too the hull. Walked around it one more time. Noticed part of the starboard side a little high. Got some ratchet straps, from the cap to the trailer, then it lined up.
    Then my air compressor shot craps. Trip to harbor freight, got a new one. Got to wondering, will that be too much stress, after it's riveted? Will I have problems bouncing down the lake? Thoughts ? ? ?
    Then , looking at some Triton boats books/online, noticed the recessed front navigation lights. Decided I wanted that.
    Current boat situation -

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    Only one screw holding them in place. Ideas too glass them in? I was thinking of peanut butter or glass reinforced bondo , in a few spots, to set/hold them. Then some 1708, too finish.
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.

  9. #99
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    Default A little progress

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    Got the mounting plates for the navigation lights glassed in. I'll find out tomorrow how it turned out.
    Got paint on the flooring, top and bottom. Supports mounted on the bottom of the board for the batteries.
    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.

  10. #100
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    Got the top cap riveted on, and a layer of 3M5200. Somewhere around 150 - 3/16SS rivets. I HIGHLY recommend a mechanical rivet gun. Your choice on the power source.
    I went with a harbor freight gun. No issues with it. Put on a swivel air fitting, made it easier to use.

    For the advice on using screws to get the cap lined up, before riveting, thank you !


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    Drinkin coffee, missin fish.
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