Boat Rigging Thread.

[Cmj]

Great idea!

[RCC]

Check out this step set up. I was doing some more searching around today. Looks like it would work like a charm on your boat also and be simple. Make both steps in diamond plate and you would be styling and profiling even more than you are now. And, from what ive read I think you could do it for less than $40 total.

Thanks for the tip. I will be scouting for metal. My mind is already beginning to work...it's kinda painful

[RCC]

Sometimes solutions are a whole lot simpler than what you imagine. I needed a solution for locking the transport holders. The solution was nothing more than a 90 degree bend in an eye bolt. In my mind I had already created at least a half dozen complex contraptions to lock the rods. What a waste of brain energy. The idea came upon me just like how the farmer found his cow "all at once".

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[RCC]

Got the caps in and installed so the rod holders are finished.

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[RCC]

Debated whether to just go with the transducer on the transom which works well with the 2 sonars networked but ended up deciding to try a second side imaging on the trolling motor. Way back in the day, an Arkansas member (lovin fishin I think) came up with a way to route the transducer cable through the slot in the terrova shaft. This is a selling point for the Terrova and the Humminbird units since the cable on the Lowrance is too big and the powerdrive doesn't have the slotted shaft. All you gotta do is just disassemble, route the cable and reassemble. The instructions are actually in the electronics forum. I do not glue the cable in the shaft. Strategic use of tape and zip ties will cause gluing the cable to not be necessary. This is complete except for routing the sonar end of the cable. I will not do this until I check the operation of the transducer. If it works ok, I'll drill an additonal hole in the switch panel and route the cable under the deck to the 998.
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[Handicrappie]

Looks great RCC. One thing i noticed that you might want to do is take a dremel and put a smooth corner on those zip tie edges. I started doing that when I use em and it works great. If I dont I seem to always be getting caught on or grabbing those sharp edges.

[RCC]

Looks great RCC. One thing i noticed that you might want to do is take a dremel and put a smooth corner on those zip tie edges. I started doing that when I use em and it works great. If I dont I seem to always be getting caught on or grabbing those sharp edges.

You're right. Everything that has an edge does seem to snag. I've already had the dremel tool out and a few more minutes with it will make the zip ties look and work better. I also need to run by lowes and pic up a whole hand full of nylon acorn nuts for the exposed bolt ends.

I did check the trailer to see if the steps would work out, and I think they will. I think I will go with some 3/8ths smooth and rivet on a thin layer of tread plate. This seems to be the easiest and most available way to get the strength I want. Now to find a piece of that vinyl looking stuff to wrap the edges in.

Another question for someone is about buying a spare tire. I'm looking at online at etrailer.com I can add a few things to it and get it over $150 for free shipping. I think the tire is $130 something with a galvanized rim. It is a 14 inch tire. If anyone has any other sources, I'm all ears.

[RCC]

In between work and more work, I worked on boat accessories. Academy had some cheap drift socks so I purchased just to see if they will actually work. I have never used or seen one used so I added a blue pool noodle and called it good. I gotta get rid of those noodles some way.

Attachment 134493

[Cray]

RCC, just a suggestion. If that sock does not have weights and your putting that noodle on top to float it, wire tie about a 3/4 oz weight to the bottom straps to help it open up.

[RCC]

RCC, just a suggestion. If that sock does not have weights and your putting that noodle on top to float it, wire tie about a 3/4 oz weight to the bottom straps to help it open up.

Will do. Thanks.