No clue how to start fishing for crappie but determined to catch one soon

[Spoonminnow]

I use different trolling motors depending on the aluminum boat I choose and don't want to have to change transducer mounts from tm to tm or mount it permanently on a transom. So, I came up with this idea:



On top of the wood post I attach part of a wreath door hanger which loops over the railing. The rachet clamp keeps everything in place. Just make sure the transducer is horizontal to the bottom which you adjust before clamping it in place. (The transducer is adjustable in the bracket that holds it.)

[Spoonminnow]

What to consider briefly speaking:
1. Your lure selection will catch any species in the waters you fish; best jig weights: 1/64 - 1/16 oz/ hook size that fits lure size and light weight for working particular depths slowly. Most important: other than sonar,lures are your best fish finders. Lures get it done regardless of conditions when worked the right way (not a fan of smelly stuff)
2. Small diameter braid (8#) for best light strike detecion and best hooksets on a med. size reel on a light action 5'6" or 6' rod can fight the largest fish
3. light ball head jigs allow a longer time at the depth fished. (unpainted is my preference so as not extend the visual lure length)
4. know your depth via sonar or counting down how long your jig takes to hit bottom; and keep track of any fish seen on the screen. Sonar is your eyes underwater.
5. know that fish can be caught in depths of 2' to 12'. Where fish are, is #1.6. a slower uneven retrieve using small lures (like the ones you showed) has the highest chances of getting strikes and catching fish of all sizes
7. Lure color is overrated. Catch fish on a few and stick with them for any conditions or fish species. Color brightness = contast to the background and may come in handy on cloudy days. Even clear plastic uncolored lures can catch fish.
8. Fish most of the time relate to something: examples: rocky bottoms, weed bottoms, subsurface or above surface walls, sharp drops, pad pockets or lines of pad edges, humps, docks (under or around), stump fields

Guess not so briefly speaking. Briefly would be using a cane pole, float and live bait while sitting under an umbrella on a dock with a few beers.

[deke95]

On one lake that I fish, we catch many fish, and our best fish by “tight lining” right on the bottom That is, casting a 1/16 curly tail jig, with a larger size split shot crimped on about 18 inches above the jig. You might have heard that crappie “only feed up”, but the truth is that crappie feed up, down, and every other way. It just depends on where they are, up in trees, or on the bottom, or suspended in open water before they run in for the spawn. Try everything to see what works on your lake or pond.

On this particular lake, during the spring, the fish are suspended in open water until the water temp reaches about 65 degrees or so, and then they start cruising into shallow water like so many silent jet squadrons! . . it’s exciting to watch it happen !

Get to know their movements on your lake!

On a tight line retrieve, just cast out, let it sink to the bottom, and SLOWLY inch it (drag it) back in. The bite will be a very soft tugging. Do not strike hard, a firm pulling back on your rod is all that’s needed, and you will have him hooked.
Most of us in my group, use a chartreuse Arkie curly tail jig, with an orange head, but many, many other jigs work as well.

Of course, we also use the same jigs under a bobber when the fish are cruising up in the water column.

I’ve even made mini A-rigs (see California rigs) out of very thin stainless steel wire, (and used under a bobber) with small jigs tied to monofilament droppers, and caught them two at a time.

Just don’t give up, and you will figure out what works on your lake!!