I fish the jigheads that I cast with ... unpainted. (just like you see them in the picture)
Colors ... I have enough different colors & color combos to start my own "mom/pop bait store" .... .... well, almost ... but it does seem that way at times.
I generally use blue/char - purple/char - pink/purple/char (aka "popsicle") - junebug/char - green/char - or a "shad" coloration (black or blue back & white or grey belly). I'll try other color combos, now & then, but usually come back to whichever ones have worked on previous/recent trips. That's probably why I have so many different colors (and I'm talking just the straight tail style "shad" plastics & tubes).
I don't "tip" my casting jigs (or pushing jig rigs) with anything ... IF I were to go to traditional "Spider Rigging", then a live minnow would be what I'd tip my jighead/plastics with.
Specific brands that I use would include (more or less in order of most used to least used):
Slab-a-nator Shad
Strike King/Mr Crappie (Thunder Tubes, Shadpole & Slabalicious)
Panfish Assassin Tiny Shad
Bobby Garland (various)
Crappie Slider (paddletail)
Slab Commanders Small Fry
Anchor Mouse LIKED above post
Is there anyway u can show me one of the jigs rigged up with the plastic on it? Do u run the bait clear up over the barb part? Again, I appreciate all this help!
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[QUOTE=Wolfman29;3479245]What is the brand of straight tails u use?
I don't personally think it makes much difference.
Again, I would suggest you watch Richard Gene, watch what he uses and how often he changes lures other than for color.
If I were starting over id only be buying 2 different type grubs at least for starters.
They would be Leeland lures trout magnets, and Bobby Garland itty bitty swimmers for the 1/64 oz jig heads.
And the 2" Bobby Garland swimmers for 1/16 3/32 jig heads. Add a split shot above the jig if needed.
Biggest most important thing to learn is (when you've been hit), and not what to use in order to get hit.
I feel I miss more Crappies than I catch when using jigs, and thats what sets guys like Richard apart from guys like me.
Hold your plastics the way you want it to ride in the water - turn your jighead upside down (hook pointing down) - run the hook point into the front end/head of the plastics and thread the plastics onto the hook - exit the hook point about 3/4 the way down the plastics and finish pushing the front end/head over the retainer barb and up against the lead head of the jighead. If the plastic body is straight, then you're good to go.
Just a FYI .... you can hold the jighead up against/beside the plastic body, to see where the hook should exit, BEFORE you start ... just to give you an idea of where to start turning the hook point to exit the body. This may help keep you from scrunching the plastics up and having to back the hook up and exit in another spot. It also keeps the retainer barb from having to be pulled out which makes a gaping hole that lessens the holding capability of the retainer barb ... because that gaping hole makes it easier for the plastic body to be pulled down on the hook, and you'll be pushing it back up on there on just about every cast. And you don't want to be doing that
Try and run the hook through the center of the plastics ... that helps keep the bait straight, so it will run straight through the water. If the plastics are crooked on the hook, it can affect the action ... and might even make the bait spin when falling or when being retrieved, and that's going to twist your line (plus it's very unlikely a fish will hit it).
The end product should look something like this :