Linecounter Reels for Long Lining

[Lonnie84]

Do any of you use line counter reels when you long line? I would like to know what type and size of reels are working the best for long lining. I looked at some reviews and it seemed they were all over the place, seen a lot of issues about the reels not counting the line correctly and reset buttons getting stuck. I am wanting to pick up a couple but would like to get your thoughts on them.

Thanks in advance for your input.

[M R Dux]

I use Okuma Magda 15s for pulling cranks but use medium spinning reels on my longlining rods. I use 10-12 pound mono for cranks but 6 pound mono for longlining. I think the spinning reels are much better suited for lite line. I know I won't be as precise on my distance from the boat without the line-counter but I personally don't think it is as critical with jigs and curly tails as it is with cranks.

[wilbur]

I was wondering the same thing. If I can use my crank pullin reels for long lining. Okuma Magda 20s

[joekiller]

Sure you can, just don't try to cast your jig out as most of the time it results in a birdsnest....

[huntinslabs]

I think it would be more aggravation than worth mot be able to pitch em out. A lil jig does not create much drag in the water vs a crankbait. Having to play out 40-50' of line would get old quick. I use shimano ix1000 for longlining. A good cast and hang em up.

[fiveeyes]

I use Daiwa 27 lc reels..mostly for walleye tho..very good reels..I would suggest that the 17 size would be very good for your needs..I too have some Magda's..biggest knock against them is the re-set button location..too exposed and bump it too often..too old and can't remember what the lead was just some thought's from a long time troller..YMMV bill

[bluegrass]

I have 6 Diawa 27lc 's. I have found that the counter is not that accurate. I put 60lb braid as a backer then add my other line. Just put the same amount of line on each reel and you'll be fine.
As for long lining , I usually pull cranks around 150' back. I put something like a bobber stop at 150' so I know where I'm at.
Hope this helps.

[Lonnie84]

Thanks for all of the great info guys, I really like the idea of a bobber stop especially using it on my non-counting reels.

[wicklundrh]

I've been trolling for as long as I can remember. What I've found with counter reels is this: You can have cheap, or you can have good... you can't have both!!!

On my walleye boat (and my old salmon boat) We utilize two reels: Okuma Magda, and Okuma Convector. The Magda's are the cheaper of the two and I would recommend the size 10 or 15 for pulling crappie cranks. FishUSA has the best prices I have found on them. The reviews however are that the line counters are "sticky". I have found this with most Okuma reels (for whatever reason). Diawa has some pretty decent ones however you get what you pay for. Their cheaper Lakemaster series has the same issues.

For me, I have used them long enough to know what their tendencies are. I always check the button before I deploy the lure. I always watch the line go out as well to ensure the counter is working. You can adjust the tension on the clicker going out or you can free spool. I do (at times) hand pull line out but again, I've been doing it for a long time and don't much think about it.

As for ALL line counter reels. You have to "calibrate" the reel. What I mean is that you MUST put the amount of recommended line on them or they will not count accurately. For me, I use either straight Berkley XT in 10 lb or I use it as a backer and then I splice in 14lb Braid. After I get the required amount of line on the reel, I run a test with a tape measure. I will measure 1 foot versus the counter, 10 ft versus the counter and 100 foot versus the counter. Most of my rods are usually within a foot or two of each other. I have however seen a few that are way out of the box. Worst case scenario is you test your footage and write it on a piece of paper and tape it to your trolling rod.

It is very critical with walleye and salmon to be in their depth window. Using precision trolling charts (available online) it will tell you the amount of line out for each lure to reach a specific depth. I would hate to be TRYING to troll at 16 feet knowing that I supposed to be 147 feet back to reach that depth yet my reel isn't calibrated correctly. It may show 147 back yet the actual footage is only 120 and I end up fishing way above where I want to be.

Bobber stops work pretty good to hit your desired amount of "line out". We utilize a simple rubber band and tie and overhand knot on the line. You can reel the line up directly through the eye and onto the reel and it doesn't slip with most mono lines (it will slip on braid).

As for rods, although I custom build rods, trolling (or boat rods) are not worth the headache of tying. They are replacable and cheep. The best rods I have found thus far are the Angler Series sold at Gander Mountain. They have a trigger (on the 7.5 and 8.5 footers). I utilize the rods that have "planer board" written on the side of them. They are a medium light MOD Fast action rod and run cranks as well as planer boards very well. They are forgiving and even in a snag will double over without issue. I have yet to break one.

I use 7.5 and 8.5 rods and run as many as 10 or 12 at a time. My rods towards the front of the boat are longer so that I can clear my other rods tips. The 8.5 rods I mentions have a longer butt handle. I pull the cap off the but, cut the EVA foam and rod handle with a dremel (to match my 7.5 footers). Makes it easier to get out of the holder.

Hope this helps. Might be more than what you are looking for.

[Lonnie84]

Hope this helps. Might be more than what you are looking for.

Excellent information there Wicklundrh, and no it's never too much info.