Braid suggestions

[Clint]

I have always used ultra-light gear and 2 & 4 # test line for Crappie & Bluegill. I recently bought a Medium Heavy rod and paired it with a medium reel (Orvis #2). The reel is marked for 6 to 10 # line and the rod (BPS GS series IM6) is marked for 6 to 17# line. I would like to try braid as the fellow with whom I fish uses braid almost exclusively and I like it for the little I have used it.

I am looking for suggestions on which size, type (I see there are different ones) and which manufacturer I should try. Also any tips on using it, such as to tie an overhand knot after tying a Palomar knot to keep the line from un-raveling (that tip my fishing partner told me).

[smoothlures]

10 lb/2 lb diameter Sufix Performance Braid is my favorite for panfish. Fireline is tops, too, but is a little stiff for light applications. Never had a Palomar slip, even in braid.

[Redy2Fish]

tie an overhand knot after tying a Palomar knot to keep the line from un-raveling

I burn/melt it with a lighter after tying the knot.

[CrappiePappy]

I have always used ultra-light gear and 2 & 4 # test line for Crappie & Bluegill. I recently bought a Medium Heavy rod and paired it with a medium reel (Orvis #2). The reel is marked for 6 to 10 # line and the rod (BPS GS series IM6) is marked for 6 to 17# line. I would like to try braid as the fellow with whom I fish uses braid almost exclusively and I like it for the little I have used it.

I am looking for suggestions on which size, type (I see there are different ones) and which manufacturer I should try. Also any tips on using it, such as to tie an overhand knot after tying a Palomar knot to keep the line from un-raveling (that tip my fishing partner told me).

Everyone's gonna have their favorites :p and I'm no exception, though I will admit ... I've only used two braids.
First one I used was Spiderwire 20/6 (grey color)... and it's on a 8' flyrod/spinning reel outfit. I use it exclusively as a slipfloat/minnow rig outfit, for drift fishing &/or fishing down in the branches of submerged trees. No leader used ... line is tied direct to a #2 litewire hook, with a improved clinch knot. No problems Thumbs Up Line is still usable, & still strong ... even though it's been on this reel for over 20yrs (it sees limited use, these days)

Second one is PowerPro 10/2 hi-vis ... and it's now on a 7' Bionic Blade IM8/Shimano Spirex 2000 outfit. It has yet to be used with this combo. Prior to this, the rod was a 6' Browning MH spinning rod (w/same reel). Primary use will be to cast Roadrunners & Whirley Bees around submerged cover, with a slight potential for deep jigging or trolling use. The PowerPro has performed well, over the 3yrs I've used it. The hi-vis yellow coloring has faded, but it's still visible in most lighting conditions.

The tip about tying a knot in the tag end, regardless of what knot you use to tie your bait on with, is a good one ... and one I've used for decades.

Other tips would include :
1- don't fill your reel spool with braid ... use old mono as backing. I suggest a minimum of 1/2 of the spool capacity, as long as that leaves enough braid to accomplish whatever method you're going to use it for (& take that to mean 2x your best casting distance, or at least 2x your trolling distance needs, whichever is greater).

2- don't try & break braid or pull your hook free with your hands Doh .. you'll only end up cutting yourself. Have a dowel rod (or other small, solid object), or towel available to wrap the line around. If you have a cork or foam handled rod, I don't advise using them to wrap the line around, either ... it can cut thru them, as well. A solid graphite (Tenn) handled rod will work, if towel or dowel is not available.

3- do yourself a favor & buy a pair of Childs size Fiskar scissors Hands Clapping and keep them with your fishing tackle. They will cut the braid, but more importantly ... they'll cut it clean & blunt across the tag end (unlike clippers, some knives, & some other types of "cutters"). This clean/blunt tag end will be much easier to thread thru hook/jighead eyes. Other types of "cutting tools" may only crush or rip the line apart ... which leaves a ragged tag end, with fibers that get in the way of pushing the limp line thru a hook/jighead eye. In lieu of Fiskar scissors, I suggest you get a pack of sewing needle threaders (available in sewing stores or craft shop supplies).

4- avoid "wind knots" by keeping pressure on the line, as you retrieve ... and by not using a wrist snap type of cast, but a smooth overhead or sidearm cast.

5- note that : braid floats easier/longer than mono - - wet braid will cling to objects much easier than wet mono - - braid doesn't have much stretch, so back off on the drag just a bit (or lighten up on your hookset :p ... whichever is easiest for you to deal with).

... cp

[Nightprowler]

a fluorocarbon leader will work wonders.

[Cray]

Everything pappy said times 2. One other thing i found when tying your knot. I keep a small tube of super glue in box. after tying knot a small touch of glue on knot will help slipping although i have used improved clinch knot with no problems for years.

[Mike Andrews]

10# Fireline
8# Seaguar InvisX

Joined with this knot:

How To Spectra to Mono connection modified albright

[smoothlures]

I will add if you spool it yourself, do so tightly. When you mash the spooled line it should be hard like a brick. Otherwise you invite tangles you'll spend lots of time trying to undo in your high dollar braid.

[gone_fishing]

Ahh after reading Pappy's post I know remember why I stopped using braid.

[Turtlebait]

Spincast,pistol grip,I always use a wrist snap with no problems,power pro 10/2,P.knot no problem with slip.However on some jigs it will slip out from under the jig eye.