Thread: The Next in Line Project

The first time we backed into a spot at the Goshen Springs Campground on Ross Barnett my wife tried to turn on the 120 volt side of the Water Heater to be disappointed by the smell of electrical burning. We have been using the camper but with the propane side of the water heater only. I always planned the haul in for the upgrades at some point.



I first cut the power to the 120 volt side then the 12 volt side. Then disconnected the propane supply line. After using a 24in breaker bar I was able to remove the drain plug / anode holder and drained the tank. The Anode was completely gone also the bolt that held the anode was almost completely rusted away. In the pictures above is the solids that came out of the tank when I drained it. On the limestone is the debris the wash tub caught while draining the tank, I wish I had thought to take a picture of how much came out before I dumped it.




After draining I disconnected the water lines from the inside and as I slid the unit out I had to go back and forth to insure the metal housing did not snag any of the other wires just laying across on the inside. Seeing all the control wires loose like this is not how I roll so I will use convoluted tubing to organize them on re-installation.




Of course the water connections were stuck but using a Battery Impact and 6-Point Deep Sockets I bumped them right out. The Hot Water side has a check valve so I cleaned it out before installing in the new tank.



After applying Recto Seal to the cleaned threads of each fitting I reinstalled them in the correct tank locations.



Re-connecting the 12volt control wires I used marine grade glue infused Stake-on Heat Shrink wire connectors instead of the cheaper connectors used by the manufacturer. I also started the convoluted tubing run going into the cabinet down thru the hole where the water line pass thru so its got some protection that far at least.



Wire Nuts are installed by turning Clockwise so when I strip stranded wire I like to pre-twist the exposed strands not by sliding my pinched fingertips over the copper, that adds impurities possibly to the copper but by pinching very firmly and twisting my wrist so the wire bend at the end of the insulation before making the wire nut termination. I do this till the wire is twisted all the way to the exposed end. This removes any slack in the strands so the wire nut bites equally into both the solid & stranded copper conductors. I also save my small rolls of Scotch 33 or 88 for wrapping wire nuts at the end of the task. The small roll pieces make it easier to get the roll in tight places.




All the wires are terminated and as much of the loose control wires are in convoluted tubing. Now to slide the water heater in and connect the propane line. The camper builders removed the factory water heater grommet for the propane line, reversed it, cut a notch out of it, then reinstalled it after getting the propane line nut thru the access opening. Using a big glob if silicone they sealed the reversed, notched grommet after connecting the propane line. I could do the si it was a bit of a pain to work the propane line in to the valve but it was possible without cutting on the grommet or reversing it.



The manufacturer installed a couple of screws thru the metal sides of the water heater into the aluminum frame to hold the front of the water heater centered in the open hole. I could not get a bit to drill the metal (I think a cheap alloy of stainless) without walking so I pilot hole was drilled with a long 1/8in bit. Afterwards I opened the holes with a cobalt bit and installed the screws.



The trim was rusted a bit on the bottom-inside so I sanded and painted it yesterday. I need to put a few more coats of paint today before installing the trim.