Very cool and awesome idea. Looks good.
I fish Crappie, single poling most of the time but casting too. My other Blazer has Vertical Rod Holders installed on top of the Gunnels which when you are swinging in a Slab you must clear the rods. They get in the way often. I use the pipes in the stern on the other boat also but in that boat the pipes penetrate out of the Cap in the back. Thinking outside the box these Rod Holders store the long jig poles very low but they remain readily accessible. Once the concept was imagined and metal broke I taped the parts to the boat for fitment and function testing. Realizing another part would need to be designed and fabricated to prevent a problem the forward "Deflector" part was made. I TIG welded both parts together, painted them, and bedded the install with 5200.
Areas where reels , guides, rods, etc could rub I am installing SeaDek to prevent damage to my boat and Tackle. I can carry 4 14ft Jig Poles in the 2 gunnel Rod Holders.
Rod Holders are also installed on the inside, Starboard side holds 2-9ft Jig Poles and 2-7ft Rods. The Port has Holders for 2 Ultra-Lites.
Also installed a little more SeaDek. More will be installed after mounting the Bimini top.
Well, ran my boat today with the setback corrections and all is well now. Caught a few Crappie to break it in right.
I had the writer with me so just ran around a bit. I am waiting till I confirm the oil injection pump is working, we didn't run it enough to see a positive drop in the oil tank under the cowl. I'm running oil in the gas till confirmation. A day missed fishing you can't go back and get. We are eating Crappie for lunch today.
Did another test run after moving the cranking battery forward to the front compartment. Seems removing all the water logged foam, rotten wood, heavy hatches, and heavy console made the hull very light and sensitive to weight and location. Hit 52mph before slowing back down, I drop back to a 21 pitch 3 blade prop that is laying around. I'm looking to try a HR3 Solas 21P next. I have a refrigerant digital scale so weighing the oil tank is needed too. If it's high I will keep only a gallon in the tank.
S10CHEVY LIKED above post
Some great ingenuity in those rod holders/platform. What kind of rod holders are those with the red logo?
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I had to go look. The brand is Rod Saver. The rods fall out on the Handle end unless you get them pretty tight. I'm planning to sew a thin piece of Aluminum into the straps strategically locating so it falls right over the handle area to keep the handles in during running in a chop.
BuckeyeCrappie thanked you for this post
Looks really great rojouio. Great Professional looking job. What was the total work time put into it??? Like from start date to test run???
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
Thank you for allowing us in on the build. There is a ton of useful info in this thread that can be gone over and over to help those of us out that will be going down this rabbit hole. Mine is in my avatar picture. I'll post up some pics later that's on my phone. I'm hoping it turns out 1/2 as well as yours. It's a 1980 Ebbtide Dyna Trak 160 Tri-V bass boat 16' with a 74" beam.
Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 TriumphRojo thanked you for this post
Well I deleted the oil injection completely not so much for the weight but the age. Ran the boat today with the Solas HR3 21P 3 blade prop. It bites like a 22in pitch, real stiff. Turned 5400rpm at the same 52 mph but that was against a good running tide. The Solas is not drilled and biting a bit too much out of the hole. So after lowing the engine a bolt hole (I have it all the way up in Hole 4 right now) to see if any improvement I'm looking at adding a set of Bob's Machine Transom Wedges and Wedge Washers. I think 5 degrees would be enough but will level the pad then measure prop shaft angle with a inclinometer so I have reference measurements. Give me a little more stern lift out the hole. When you hit the trim the whole boat lifts out the water like its Turbo Charged.
Sleeping on the water test allowed me to think about all the behavior traits of yesterday's water test and fishing trip. Posting it up for future boat restorers will give them something to watch out for. I was fishing in a blind spot to boat traffic, had a guy blow by me close but slowed down producing a massive wake before correcting. I only had time to troll away from the tree and get the bow into the waves before they were on me. Well I took a bit of water over the bow, it ran right to the floor drain centered in the lower curvature of the deck floor (remember the deck was crowned at the drain when starting the project). The floor drain worked excellently, the forward hatches did not leak a drop, the automatic bilge switch turned the pump on draining the water catch basin I created while sealing under the fuel tank. very little water was left on the deck.
Lastly in the turns of the bayou my prop cavitated. This morning I went right out into the Shop and measured Pad to Prop Shaft height and found the starting Prop shaft height too high. I had it in the 3rd hole when removing the extra setback and should have left it there. Well it is only 1-15/16in below the Pad with 4 inches of Setback. Since the Engine mounting holes on most Outboards are 3/4in apart centerline I need to move the engine down 2 holes the get as close to 3-1/2in below the pad, where I should have started out to begin with. Included is a picture of the calculations.