Thread: 1996 Blazer VL100 Restoration to Crappie Chaser

Updating the thread the glass work is not complete but I have numerous pictures to post so the update will break up the current task.



So I cut 6in Chop Glass into a 2in tape for this seam, some of the grinding prep was done to the cap before setting it back on. I have 3 layers of tape all the way around.



While leveling the hard edge with a DA 40 grit and 3in grinding disk 60 grit I had to lay down on the floor the get some of the sides. I got fiberglass dust in areas on my body I didn't know I had. Itch! Anyway image 6 shows where I burned the glass and today I have to re-fiberglass that area while fairing the rest of the task. The gap that was there was greater than the rest and trying to leave a radius I had the reinforcement too far out. Hopefully I will have it Gelcoated by the weekend.

The burned area is the forward transverse bulkhead. Very critical to anchor it down, it is what helps shutdown any bow curl allowing wave energy to be transferred to the boat hull. Energy travels in a straight line so if I keep the maximum amount of wave energy out of the hull the boat should ride better. I glassed the snot out of it right before closing up the shop. The fairing of the balance of the seam is well along and super fair. I understand why manufacturers of the production boats carpet over this seam, what a PITA to fair.

I hate working with fiberglass, even just drilling a hole in it makes me itch!

Thinking about it make me itch. I know the feeling of itching in places you didn’t know existed. Like insulating a house ! YUK

So the Cockpit Deck to Cap seam is now finished, faired to 80 Grit, all the inside corners were such a PITA because you can't sand with anything but a finger or thumb. Anyway it's done. Now comes the clean up. You can never blow all the dust out and it all has to be removed since now is the time to make the SeaDek patterns for the Cockpit Deck. I use clean water and a microfiber cloth to wipe clean. The hatches are on to keep dust out of the new carpet. I installed the carpet while installing the cap.



I like to make the SeaDek patterns now because I can see the radius of the fairing well and no console to work around. If you see, the console location is scribe cut into the gelcoat. If you don't get all the dust off the tape won't stick well holding your pattern material in place. So using 3/4in masking tape I layout all the breaks and offsets needed to make the SeaDek install look nice. SeaDek is not wild about sticking in a curved area so I only install on the Flats if possible. I think it is 39x77in per sheet. You don't want to Butt two seams right together because it does shrink some and a gap will open up over time. Best to design a break into the layout.



Using Mylar sheet for the pattern material really makes patterning easy. I just tape in securely first but no tape over a pattern line. Cut your pattern sheet oversize. Then trace your tape lines, write "UP" or "TOP" on the topside, put arrows for direction, where it fits, etc. After you remove your pattern straight edges can be used to straighten up your lines if needed.



This is a picture of my sewing loft. I make Hot Rod interiors and Marine Canvas & Cushions here. It's part of our second floor, real convenient commute to work.

Good stuff. Really interested in this SeaDek install.

Dang it rojoguio, what can't you do...Nice you have the ability to do it all in house and not have to rely on the ability of outside work being done the way you want it, and have it to you when you need it...Looking great.

Awesome work