Thread: 1996 Blazer VL100 Restoration to Crappie Chaser

Hmmm as if you haven’t anything to do. How are those wildfires?

So a picture is worth a 1000 words. Look at the Top Cap Gelcoat condition. I am receiving the Duratec VE Primer tomorrow. No way am I sanding all this off. Most primers have a maximum reduction percentage before the resins break down preventing proper adhesion or curing, or both. My thoughts is to reduce the VE Primer to the maximum "Non-Compliant" viscosity I can, spray is through an old HP1 clearcoat gun for maximum atomization, slowly building material, filling the pores on the first coats. Let that flash off the extra thinners and harden, scuff to dull with red scotch brite, then apply the proper millage coats with my primer gun. Of course I will have to call Duratec with my plans to see what they think. If in question I always call the manufacturer first.

I spoke with Hawkeye Industries, they were very helpful. Figures, good product, good customer service. Anyway the Duratec VE Primer thinning is max 10% as a rule. Although further thinning for filling the porosity is acceptable as long as I cut to level and re-prime the tie-coat repair. So to be clear, after filling the pores a second coat of VE primer with a reduction rate no more than 10% is required. Other topcoats may be acceptable like gelcoat, I just didn't get the complete rundown of topcoat specifics during our conversation. The Duratec VE Primer success I have had is with some millage film build for substrate surface stability.

I am sure this will beat sanding and sanding and sanding. Hopefully it adheres well and fills like you intend making this step in the restoration project a success. Thanks for the explanation…

Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie

Hmmm as if you haven’t anything to do. How are those wildfires?

We had smoke in the yard yesterday afternoon but the wind was blowing from the Gulf inland. The other fires are in between us and the Gulf so I suspect the smoke was being blown in our direction. Thank you for asking. We may get some rain later today, our citrus trees are Sun Scalding so this morning I have to jump on the Bobcat and move them in the shade. Moved all the Fig Trees yesterday. Finally a burn ban was implemented too.

I originally was going to install a PVC rigging tube and had cut a hole for a 3in PVC pipe flange. The PVC was really adding weight unnecessarily. After thumbing through one of the warehouse's catalogs I remembered the TH Marine Rigging Tubes. So after ordering and receiving the Rigging Tube Kit I quickly realized the errors of my ways.

This post addresses the correction I had to do so the kit could be installed. I should say here that since the flotation is missing in the original location (the void directly under the console) I am spraying flotation under the livewell / fuel tank area to make up for it. I need the rigging tube to provide access from the void to the bilge.

As you can see in the pictures once again I'm using a saved holesaw disc to correct my mistake. It is the same one that came out of that spot to start with. Looking at it I realized it could use offsetting on the re-installation to better position the tube exit in the bulkhead. By screwing the disc to a block and clamping the block in the drill press it was easy to cut the filler piece. After cutting I buttered with thickened West Systems Epoxy and installed it. A bit of excess Epoxy squeezed out, that was skimmed flat with a bondo spreader.




All this time I have been repairing cracks in the Cap. I plan to post the Cap progress up once it is in Prime.

3 solid 5/8in Coosa 26 transverse bulkheads and a double glassed 1/2in Cossa 26 deck was installed. These pictures here can help to understand why. If you turn your palm face up and curl your fingers in this is what your boat hull tries to do on impact of bow waves. The more the hull curls the more energy is absorbed into the hull instead of passing under (energy travels in a straight line). The backs of front decks on some very name brand boats crack at the back of the front deck because the energy is absorbed into the hull and the trailing edge of the front deck, where the vertical transverse bulkhead is, creates a compression point on each side of the boat. Also torsional stress is applied whenever the wave is not hit perfectly straight on.

By laminating the bulkheads in this little project boat, laminating the decking, and epoxying the deck, stringers, bulkheads, etc together the hull will not allow torsional stress to be absorbed. Even the fuel tank deck is laminated on both sides and epoxied and glassed in place. I will have a weak spot behind the deck where it ends but by laminating the Cap to the deck and adding the mahogany stripping where the Cap screws to the Hull, I won't have enough horsepower to flex the hull enough to affect where any give might be experienced.

Well another issue was realized. I needed to keep the rigging tube out of the bilge if possible and create a pathway for the Livewell drain hose from the Port rear of the livewell around the fuel tank to the remote drain valve. The rigging tube is routed around the back of the fuel tank now as well as stubbed up underneath the console providing a easy rigging route access. A path was needed where I could connect the drain hose to the drain fitting of the livewell after setting the cap but slide and secure the fuel tank when completed. With some creative thinking the console will be water tight if I don't cut a hole in the back. More than enough room is there for my feet behind the console so I decided to make the console completely dry inside.



Since molded fiberglass products are tapered I use a sheet square to square up the gauge mounting holes for a cleaner install. Here the helm mounting holes are cut, gauge mounting holes are cut, side access hatch hole is cut, and the 703 Control is drilled and trial fitted.



I provided a picture here to show how a jigsaw blade and tape makes it much easier to see the edge of the cut line. Using a Sharpie the lines are wide, your cuts stray more. With the fine tape line it is easy to see exactly where your cutting.

That ape helps my old eyes here. Thanks for the latest post.