Thread: Trying to figure out Livescope mounting with limited options

I currently have the same issue as you on my 14ft boat. My Livescope is portable because my boat is stored outside and I don't want anyone stealing it. I found my best option is to get another Garmin UHD unit and link them together. This way I can use either unit from the bow or the console. Plus I need side and down scanning imaging at the console. For me a used 73 or 93SV unit will be perfect. With the black Friday deals it is pretty easy to find used units without a transducer. Used 93SV units can found pretty easy for $500. For me it is small price to pay to have flexibility.

You guys are full of great ideas. Thank you for taking the time to help me.

That fish-eye phone pic makes the boat look short. It's 11' from my bow to the Garmin, and 5.5' to the transom. So, it's about 8' to get it onto the front platform. There is plenty of transducer cable, I would think at least 16', so this is sounding very do-able.

My 93SV is on a detachable swivel base, and I think I have a second one, so this is sounding pretty good. I need to go take a look.

I know nothing about the LS units, and have not opened the box yet, but this causes a few more questions:

1. Can the Livescope and the head unit have different power supplies, or will that cause electrical issues?
2. How long is the cable for the Livescope? I read somewhere that it's pretty short, maybe 6' from the brain box to the head unit. That limits where it can be mounted.
3. Does it affect the unit to plug and unplug it from the screen often?
4. I see people using an 18V tool battery to power a screen. Is that too much voltage, or will the units handle it okay? And do the little batteries last a full day?

Again, thanks for the help.

As far as mounting, my Terrova has eaten several 'ducer cables, and this one costs way too much to risk, so I'm going with the pole mount. I've already bought 1 and 1-1/4" PVC for it, but I've been thinking about this, and have an idea....

What if I bought an old, $20 clamp-on trolling motor off Craigslist or Marketplace, cut off the motor and mount the livescope to that? It would be sturdy, easy to turn and adjust, and fold out of the way easily. Seems like a really simple and effective way to do it, at least on my one boat. I could even run the wires down the inside to protect them.

Hopefully this will work, too.

Ram mount and ram pole holder. I used a Paint extension handle for my transducer mounting pole. If you want more details of the build let me know. I chose the painters pole for several reasons. It's inexpensive, the inner pole slides freely, it has a locking collar to hold position.

Get a second cradle and power wire for up front. Just unsnap and move screen to front for LS on a diy pole. Could also make the box and pole portable too and use it from rear deck also.


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Originally Posted by thill

2. How long is the cable for the Livescope? I read somewhere that it's pretty short, maybe 6' from the brain box to the head unit. That limits where it can be mounted.


Again, thanks for the help.

The cable that comes with the lvs is pretty short I believe 6' is correct. One end is a Garmin circular connector the other end is a regular ethernet cable connector. Garmin sells a coupler to be able to extend the cable if needed. On my first boat setup I just went to Home Depot and bought an ethernet coupler and an ethernet cable long enough to mount the head unit where I wanted it. I did make sure I sealed up the coupler connections. The Garmin coupler is supposed to be waterproof.

Two options. One is buy second cradle and power wire for mounting unit up front and move screen back and forth.

Second option is mount box and pole at the rear. Instead of fishing into wind/current and having boat behind fish and pitching into wind/current fish upwind so rear of boat is at the fish. This also moves your TM further away reduces spooking fish but downside is prop wash is moving onto fish unless you setup just off the side of fish.


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Originally Posted by thill

Greetings all. I have an old, dented-up 3-bunk jon boat, cobbled together from Craigslist to crappie fish from. Not pretty, but it gets me out there:

1. Ain't nuttin wrong with your boat. I was admiring it before I read your comments.
2. Great thread!

There were some questions about LS32 cabling. If memory serves, the ducer is short but connects to the black box (which is very power hungry, use 10G wire directly to the battery). It's ethernet from the black box to the graph.

My thoughts; any used graph with a map will get the job done, but if you like your SI... Get a ram mount and 2nd power cord. Move the graph when you need to. SI is as useless in the front as LS is in the rear so no need for ethernet on the console or moving SI wires to the front.
Instal a switch to the black box as it might use power without a graph?
As always - Fuse Fuse Fuse. They don't protect devices, they protect you and your boat.