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Thread: Heating Jig Heads for Powder Coat

  1. #11
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    I began with a lamp, then a butane torch...and finally settled on the heat gun. I've found with a heat gun it was easier to get more consistent (timing/heat) etc.
    Also, with a heat gun you can re heat the head if it's not quite hot enough and have to dip twice.
    "Stumphunter's Crappie Jigs" Prostaff
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  2. #12
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    I have used all the different heat sources but prefer the torch for speed. Granted I'm not a high volume jig supplier but last bottle of butane lasted a little over two years. Yes I do write the date on it when I start a new bottle. Old guy thing I guess. You really have to watch your time.I ruined more jigs than some folks fish in a lifetime.

  3. #13
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    Name:  Paint stuff.jpg
Views: 199
Size:  85.0 KB This is my torch and powder setup.
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  4. #14
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    "Also, with a heat gun you can re heat the head if it's not quite hot enough and have to dip twice."


    I find this to be the advantage of using a heat gun. Sometimes the powder dissolve all the way and all you have to due is hold the jig head over the heat source for a few moments.

  5. #15
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    The least amount of heat to gain some adherence is gonna be best. A second pass if the painted head looks powdery.

    I strongly suggest you read about curing. The application can be sloppy but you want the curing to be done correctly. Time and temperature can be regulated then. There are recommendations for time and temperature for a very good reason.

    A chemical change occurs. Crosslinking for strength. However, finish and color are what you will be most interested in. Thermometer in a small oven is gonna be far more important than this heat source. Just get the paint on board….then cute it.

    Check out Jungle Jim’s stuff. Look at DrNips stuff. Look at Grumpy and the others who have done this stuff long before either of us. Fluid bed is a distraction. Swap out containers right away, getting wide mouth and shallow containers. Keep powders inside the A/C untilneeded.
    Maybe they will bite this one……

  6. #16
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    The least amount of heat to gain some adherence is gonna be best. A second pass if the painted head looks powdery.

    I strongly suggest you read about curing. The application can be sloppy but you want the curing to be done correctly. Time and temperature can be regulated then. There are recommendations for time and temperature for a very good reason.

    A chemical change occurs. Crosslinking for strength. However, finish and color are what you will be most interested in. Thermometer in a small oven is gonna be far more important than this heat source. Just get the paint on board….then cute it.

    Check out Jungle Jim’s stuff. Look at DrNips stuff. Look at Grumpy and the others who have done this stuff long before either of us. Fluid bed is a distraction. Swap out containers right away, getting wide mouth and shallow containers. Keep powders inside the A/C untilneeded.
    Maybe they will bite this one……

  7. #17
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    Two threads on how I paint start to finish with videos and finished jigheads.

    https://www.crappie.com/crappie/pour...-start-finish/

    https://www.crappie.com/crappie/pour...aint-jigheads/
    Thanks SuperDave336 thanked you for this post

  8. #18
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    I've been powder painting jigs for over 30 years using a Bic lighter. Back then they suggested a lighter as a heat source and it worked for me so there was no need to try anything else. 3-4 seconds for a 1/32, 5-6 seconds for a 1/16. Probably have painted over 500,000 heads using the lighter method.

  9. #19
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    I use an electric hot plate to keep jig heads preheated. Then a couple of seconds over an alcohol lamp and into the paint. Fine tune amount of time over alcohol lamp to get the heat just right for coating.

    No noise from the heat gun, only takes a few seconds before dipping


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  10. #20
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    Using a candle you'll get soot on the jig and the powder might not stick

    Tried the oven didn't like it

    I use a heat gun and a count of 6 then flip and a count of 6 and dip

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