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Thread: Braided line question

  1. #11
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    Been using braid on spinning, spincast and baitcast reels for years. Forget fluorocarbon and mono.
    Most important reasons for using braid:
    1. strike sensitivity from a long distance cast
    2. excellent hook sets which are started by fish that begin to panic
    3. almost no line twist when using non-twist lures such as jig heads. Mepps and other in-line spins will eventually cause twist.
    4. abrasion resistant. Some retie after a certain number of casts. I don't see the need and never have a fish break the line - except pickerel.
    5. zero stretch which can be a problem but which is rectified using the right action rod. When a fish - especially a large fish - is hooked and fights longer than smaller fish, the hole gets larger where the hook is embedded from all the tugging. The right rod action corrects that - meaning - medium action with a fast 1/3 length end. Light action is fine but never too light along the entire rod length as with ultralights. You want to guide the fish away from snag areas and from under the boat - light action doesn't cut it.
    6. as with any line attached to light small lures, a small line diameter is crucial for best lure action. Fish focus on the lure - not the line, and though larger diameter lines may be used, lure action is affected.
    7. knots stay knotted.

    I know that many like Power Pro, but for my money KastKing Super Power Braid is the best I've ever cast regardless of lure used and fish fished for. I don't see the need to go to 6 lb test with its 2 lb diameter. For light small lures, 8 lb test with a 4 lb diameter works for me regardless the size fish struggling to get free. In fact, I can pull my Jon boat to the snag to get the hook free which happened 8x in stumpy water and 4x stuck on tree branches.

    When it comes to wind knots or tangles near the rod tip, I raise the rod tip a bit after every cast and then allow the lure to drop or wiggle or whatever to maintain pressure on the rod tip as much as possible. Too many strikes are missed by slack line at anytime after the lure hits the water!

    These are my suggestions and conclusions from thousands of casts and fish caught over many years when it comes to line. The only time I might consider using a fluorocarbon leader is when I ice fish or vertical jig beneath the boat. I want the line to be a bit stiffer yet responsive when jigging light lures straight up or down. Leaders in general don't do it for me - just one more knot to fail and line abrasion that needs checking.

  2. #12
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    wait till you don't notice it wrapped up on the tip of a rod in the wind
    and crank the reel handle with the drag set a bit tight
    that SNAP of the rod tip is just a simply joy full sound
    not sure how many rods over the years it has destroyed but to be sure a terribly high number
    it seems to me that a trip with it without some major malfunction is impossible
    one little foul up in the line at any point caused by anything will always result in a ever so tiny knot so tight it almost don't look like a knot
    but I still know a ton of folks that use it and I run it a bit myself for those "special" occasions
    sum kawl me tha outlaw ketchn whales

  3. #13
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    wait till you don't notice it wrapped up on the tip of a rod in the wind
    At least once every outing!
    Thanks Ketchn thanked you for this post

  4. #14
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    I use different species of hi-vis mono, it's always been my preference and probably always will be. I respect others choices.Name:  20210411_111509.jpg
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    Sent from my SM-J337P using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by plawren53202 View Post
    My question is about line choice for single pole jigging/Livescoping (using 10' B&M Gold and 10' Ozark Rods Xtreme).

    Thus far I had been using copolymer (mono/fluoro), Sufix Advance, PLine, or Yo-Zuri, and have been pretty happy with it. However, have been reading/seeing on YT a number of people suggesting braid. I do use braid on all of my spinning rods for bass and love it there.

    Respooled my two jigging poles with braid, 10# Sufix 832, and tried it out this weekend. I HATED it. Horrible problems with the line constantly tangling, especially around the tip of the pole. It was pretty windy this weekend, and seemed like every time I set the hook, the line would twist around the end of the pole, bad enough to require that I untangle it.

    In casting for bass with a spinning rod, the Sufix 832 is great because it is very soft and supple, casts very well. Should I be using something a little stiffer for crappie jigging? What braid do you braid users use, and how is it on the soft/stiff spectrum?

    Thanks!

    Your results are spot on to what I have experienced. Braid will work very well for dipping/vertical jigging/livescoping as the sensitivity is unmatched. Especially around trees, you can feel the limb and work around it long before you are hung up. But if there is ANY wind at all you are in for some tangles.. and those tangles can really easily result in a broken tip with braid. Just like any other line and vertical fishing, your jig is spinning when you work it and eventually those spins work their way up the line to the tip. As soon as you give some slack line there will be a tangle at the tip, now add in wind making the slack line jump around and you are in for a rough day.

    Remember you need a soft rod with braid, stiffer with mono. You need the rod to take up the impact of the hookset with braid, so you dont rip paper lips.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin22 View Post

    Remember you need a soft rod with braid, stiffer with mono. You need the rod to take up the impact of the hookset with braid, so you dont rip paper lips.
    Actually, Kevin ... I use a stiff rod for casting braid ... and I don't "set the hook" like I do with mono. I basically just keep reeling & pull the rod tip about a foot in the opposite direction. The stiff rod & no-stretch braid do most of the hook setting for me, so there's really no need to "jerk" the rod. In fact, there's been lots of times when pulling the rod hasn't even been necessary.
    Likes Spoonminnow LIKED above post

  7. #17
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    I use a stiff rod for casting braid ... and I don't "set the hook" like I do with mono. I basically just keep reeling & pull the rod tip about a foot in the opposite direction. The stiff rod & no-stretch braid do most of the hook setting for me, so there's really no need to "jerk" the rod. In fact, there's been lots of times when pulling the rod hasn't even been necessary.
    Same here - never a cross their eyes hook set or playing the fish.
    (Time to dump the 1000 yds. or so of mono...)

  8. #18
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    I have fished braid so long and adjusted the hookset accordingly that I miss fish when using mono
    The love for fishing is one of the best gifts you can pass along

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrappiePappy View Post
    Actually, Kevin ... I use a stiff rod for casting braid ... and I don't "set the hook" like I do with mono. I basically just keep reeling & pull the rod tip about a foot in the opposite direction. The stiff rod & no-stretch braid do most of the hook setting for me, so there's really no need to "jerk" the rod. In fact, there's been lots of times when pulling the rod hasn't even been necessary.
    I dont set the hook with any rod for crappies, just reel set and pull pressure on the fish or lift straight up with a fast motion when vertical fishing. Maybe "hookset" was a bad choice of word, but you need the soft rod to take the impacts throughout the whole catch so you don't pull hooks. Possibly not an issue for everyone? I have a jig casting rod with braid set up at all times (usually a st croix 6'8 ULF) and the super soft tip of this rod keeps the fish hooked. I originally tried it with a quantum 6'6 ULF and it was too stiff, kept losing fish half way in when they would take a sharp turn to the side or open their parachute mouth and create more drag, especially when they go from surface to make that last kick downwards at the side of the boat.

    The braid I use for casting is 8lb power pro, the braid I use for vertical is 10# sufix 832.

  10. #20
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    One thing I just remembered which justifies using a mono or f/c leader: fish that are able to consistently yank the hook out because of rod stiffness/ braid zero-stretch. That happened to me in spring when 9" bass in an area pulled free on the jump over and over. I felt helpless not realizing the problem. Guess I'll keep some mono around for a leader though rarely has this happened and in fact never since then.

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