Thread: Powder Painting Quality

Originally Posted by skiptomylu

I have used an alcohol burner for 15 years, don't care for the noise of the heat gun and also the other issues I have with it, like the chord getting in the way as well as other things. I know lots of guys like the heat gun, I stick with my clean burning alcohol burner!

Skip

Hey Skip,
For each thier own.I also own an alcohol burner but prefer the electric for easy on/off and even heat distribution.The cord is not any problem and since I am hard of hearing noise(what noise?) Is not a issue.I do still use the alcohol burner while building arrows.It's whatever you learn to like.

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Skip,
For each thier own.I also own an alcohol burner but prefer the electric for easy on/off and even heat distribution.The cord is not any problem and since I am hard of hearing noise(what noise?) Is not a issue.I do still use the alcohol burner while building arrows.It's whatever you learn to like.

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All very true and everyone has their own comfort level with different tools. I started with the alcohol burner and at some point guys talking about using a heat gun I gave it a try, but it felt kind of like trying to throw the ball with my left hand when I am right handed, lol! So I stopped really fast and put that away for use on other things, lol!

I am so hard headed and set in my ways that I still have not tried using the shrink tubing to cover the swivels on my Roadrunners and I have painted and tied a huge number of them. I use to buy the unpainted heads from Blakemore and my minimum was 500 heads of any size or type. Now am thinking I should have tried that heat shrink thing a long time ago, lol!

Skip

Originally Posted by skiptomylu

All very true and everyone has their own comfort level with different tools. I started with the alcohol burner and at some point guys talking about using a heat gun I gave it a try, but it felt kind of like trying to throw the ball with my left hand when I am right handed, lol! So I stopped really fast and put that away for use on other things, lol!

I am so hard headed and set in my ways that I still have not tried using the shrink tubing to cover the swivels on my Roadrunners and I have painted and tied a huge number of them. I use to buy the unpainted heads from Blakemore and my minimum was 500 heads of any size or type. Now am thinking I should have tried that heat shrink thing a long time ago, lol!

Skip

Hey Skip,
About like everything else in life there are always trade-offs...I do like using heat shrink on eyelets and especially crane swivels for keeping the powder paint out BUT it does take extra time to install and remove the shrink after curing.That is a negative no doubt.For many years I have used 1/4 " stainless steel tubing sections about 6" long to heat shield the crane ,allowing the hook eyelet to heat ,then using round toothpicks to remove eyelet paint after curing.That is a whole lot less trouble /time than shrink but a guy does have to "break free "some cranes occasionally. Either method gets the job done.Again the shrink elimates the unwanted paint but it does take more time to install /remove.
I will admit to being a switch hitter as I still employ both methods.
Through the years I have produced several thousand horse head/pony head spinners.They take time to produce so that is always a big consideration. I am completely relaxed and at ease with the "Blakemore Road Runner Police" as I have sold none.You would be suprised how many I have given away to friends and strangers sometimes at boat ramps while talking fishing.
You have helped me Skip getting started in a "new to me " variety of tackle-crafting.That is hand-tying jigs and I appreciate your advice and supplies.
Thank You Kindly

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Skip,
About like everything else in life there are always trade-offs...I do like using heat shrink on eyelets and especially crane swivels for keeping the powder paint out BUT it does take extra time to install and remove the shrink after curing.That is a negative no doubt.For many years I have used 1/4 " stainless steel tubing sections about 6" long to heat shield the crane ,allowing the hook eyelet to heat ,then using round toothpicks to remove eyelet paint after curing.That is a whole lot less trouble /time than shrink but a guy does have to "break free "some cranes occasionally. Either method gets the job done.Again the shrink elimates the unwanted paint but it does take more time to install /remove.
I will admit to being a switch hitter as I still employ both methods.
Through the years I have produced several thousand horse head/pony head spinners.They take time to produce so that is always a big consideration. I am completely relaxed and at ease with the "Blakemore Road Runner Police" as I have sold none.You would be suprised how many I have given away to friends and strangers sometimes at boat ramps while talking fishing.
You have helped me Skip getting started in a "new to me " variety of tackle-crafting.That is hand-tying jigs and I appreciate your advice and supplies.
Thank You Kindly

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Your welcome! I have always just wrapped the tin foil around the swivel and tried to keep paint out of the top, but sometimes it just is what it is, lol! The real Roadrunners in 1/32 are the hardest due to being the smallest and since they only make that with a #6 hook there is not a ton of room. The ponies are a lot easier since the larger sickle hooks give so much room, but still the same issue on the eye and swivel. I have used a toothpick for all my tying time, but the last few years the toothpicks I got had to be whittled down so I do that. It just makes it a lot easier to deal with, but if one or two get by and are closed I have a thin needle bodkin I use to heat up and stir through melting the paint out to the eye and I do this as I tie them. I have not tried the heat shrink because of what you said, time and having to deal with taking it back off, lol!

Skip

Folks, I finally broke down and tried the heat shrink a couple months ago and it is so easy to fall in love with. It does have a time element but the jigs look beautiful and the time I spent fooling with the shrink is made up by very little cleaning if any. It's not that much different plus this is just like every thing you all do with every step of jig tying, it does get quicker with practice. Having said that, I pour dozens and not thousands. I can not relate to that extent of the spectrum. Lot of good info in the post.

I pour thousands to donate, but a lot of great info from the pro's.

Thanks

Hey ,
To be just a little philosophical as we go through life there is always an opportunity to learn...a lifelong process.
Anyway just another little tidbit about heat shrink that I have learned myself.
The black common 3/32 shrink that I have been using for eyelets and crane swivels is easy to remove from an eyelet but difficult to remove from a crane...I use a snap blade utility knife to make a slice in the shrink top to bottom(jig head).Then usually have to push left and right next to the slice at the top of the crane's body to be able to push downward with my thumbnail to free the shrink from the crane....Finally here's the news...If you use the clear poly shrink .092" ID it is conciderably easier to remove after painting/curing.It is the difference of day and night.The black shrink wants to adhere to the body of the crane...the clear poly does not hardly at all.Save yourself some headache and get some clear poly for your cranes.The black is still fine for eyelets though.Enjoy your Tackle-Crafting and fishing.Be safe of Covid-19.
One more item...the local hardware store charges $2 for the small snap blade knife and over $4 for the large.Amazon has the small 12 for $12 with 10 refil blades...the large 12 for $12.Much better pricing.
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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey ,
To be just a little philosophical as we go through life there is always an opportunity to learn...a lifelong process.
Anyway just another little tidbit about heat shrink that I have learned myself.
The black common 3/32 shrink that I have been using for eyelets and crane swivels is easy to remove from an eyelet but difficult to remove from a crane...I use a snap blade utility knife to make a slice in the shrink top to bottom(jig head).Then usually have to push left and right next to the slice at the top of the crane's body to be able to push downward with my thumbnail to free the shrink from the crane....Finally here's the news...If you use the clear poly shrink .092" ID it is conciderably easier to remove after painting/curing.It is the difference of day and night.The black shrink wants to adhere to the body of the crane...the clear poly does not hardly at all.Save yourself some headache and get some clear poly for your cranes.The black is still fine for eyelets though.Enjoy your Tackle-Crafting and fishing.Be safe of Covid-19.
One more item...the local hardware store charges $2 for the small snap blade knife and over $4 for the large.Amazon has the small 12 for $12 with 10 refil blades...the large 12 for $12.Much better pricing.
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Thanks I may have to try that especially since I don't tie for others any longer, but I need to tie some for my sons so this may help! What size do you think I would need for the Crane's on the 1/32 Oz Roadrunner as it's pretty small?

Skip