Take a guess on how many you think you will use and buy extra. Something else I found out was that 5200 will cure hard unopened on the shelf. It’s a chemical reaction that is aided by air, but will cure well underwater. Point here is, be careful about buying old stock. I checked around here and found it at my Ace hardware for $20 a tube. And it is much more runny than regular silicone.

For attaching the hulls, we used to us a small screw here and there until we got to it with rivets. Then shoot 5200 up in between, or shoot it before you rivet and after you drill. Keeps water from shooting up the hull and getting between the two surfaces and coming in the boat. If the surfaces are wiped down with acetone on a rag and clean it will bond soundly and reduce stress on any rivets.

Rub rail comes in many ways, most I’ve seen were predrilled. That doesn’t mean they have to be used if they land to close to a rivet. If you use an aluminum rail with an insert, buy a good rubber mallet to help form it and watch all the you tube you can find til you’re comfortable with it. A heat gun helps soften the insert if it’s cranky. Try to get the same rail that was on it. Some are different shape for different applications. Proper caps and corners make the job look professional and more durable, spend the extra money or polish the old ones.