Lots of great ideas here.
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Creativity is just intelligence fooling aroundSlab thanked you for this post
Another mod to my boat.
When I tore it down for rebuilding I noticed the center section under the deck was an open space and not used by anything. See below picture. The challenge was moving the seat bases. The aluminum pieces with the hole in the center, one on each side of the shop vac.
My solution was to move the seat bases to the sides of the open center, which required basses that are sliced off not complete circles). I bought a bunch of then on-line from the manufacture via their scratch and dent sale. $30 each was on sale for $10 each.
I took the old seat bases and moved them to the front deck so I had three across seating. I added two hatches to that center section and now have a 7'6" long rod storage locker under the main deck. I put all my spider rigging poles in there. Currently it hold 8 poles; 2-16', 2-14', 2'-12', and 2-10'.
That's a good idea. When I re did my boat there were live well hoses going through the open area. I added a 1 1/2" pvc pipe that ran clear to the nose to use as a wire chase.
The older I get the more I realize the therapeutic benefits of fishing
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Worlds proudest grandpa x6Hanr3 LIKED above post
I moved the livewell from the port side to under the front deck, and had to run new plumbing lines and ran them on the foam side of the stringer. I also added a wire chase through the rod locker for my trolling motor.
I forgot to add- that rod locker is under my livewell and bow storage area. Basically I have three levels in the bow of the boat. top deck (fishing platform), mid-deck (livewell and storage areas), and lower deck (rod locker).
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Nice layout change and good work.
Creativity is just intelligence fooling aroundHanr3 thanked you for this post
Y’all keep listing your great ideas. I have already used two of them and looking for more. Slab, I hope you can archive this for later use. What a great idea for this thread!
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Slab thanked you for this post
This is a good project for youth. Why pay 89 cents for a slip float when you can make them for about three cents each? This may give you ideas. Styrofoam, hard straw, red electric tape, a drop or two of Titelock. These slip floats will support up to a 1/8th ounce jig heads. You could also Titelock a 1/4 bolt nut on the bottom to make it a weighted slip float. I used a sharp knife to cut the hard Styrofoam. (Parents might want to help their children cut the Styrofoam). Use a long heated knitting needle to put the hole in the Styrofoam. (Parents you can do this for your child or youth group) Insert the hard plastic straw and use Titelock to secure. When the glue dries just wrap the float in red tape.
Mike
Last edited by shipahoy41; 07-28-2019 at 07:02 AM.
I bought a fish finder at a yard sale for 5 bucks. It worked but the screen looked like it had been cleaned with a brillo pad. Screen was fully covered in swirls and cross-hatch scratches.
I had a Meguirres headlight restoration kit, so I followed the directions using the 2 different grits of polishing pads and the final buffing polish.
The screen was completely clear of scratches and squeaked when I ran my finger across the screen.
It`s now a really great looking 1995 fish finder, suitable for a kayaker, Jon boat, portable use or for anyone that's budget challenged. Or just cheap.
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I often fish alone from either the shore or a dock. That makes getting a bigger fish than the 2# test I use out of the water. I bought a long handled net but it took two hands to use it. I modified the net so it floats with the front edge under water. I tie the end of the handle to the dock rail, drop the extended net into the water and slide the fish into the net where I can grab the handle and lift the fish. Once it is in the net I can lay my rod down and lift the net with the fish onto the dock.
How I attached the pool noodles to the rim of the net:
How the net sits in the water: