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Reply With QuoteIt is an old school procedure
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Yes. This is a spinning guide only technic. I have replaced far to many spinning guides on production rods because the simply became loose and fell off. Placing 2 bands above the guide prevents this from happening.
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I learned how to pull the thread end under the wrap on U-Tube using a different color loop of thread, keeping the wrap tite
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I had a feeling that is why you do it that way.
I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"
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Before applying the epoxy to the thread we need to insure that the guides are straight. If the guides are not straight the rod owner will immediately recognize and complain about it. My power wrapper has a lazer that allegedly is used to straighten guides. I can't get the hang of it so I do it by eye. I will chuck a reel onto the reel seat and look down the rod and adjust the guides accordingly until they are all straight. This process can not be skipped. Even on bait casting rods I do this and most often I use a Roberts or spiral wrap on the guides on bait casters.
For those that are not familiar with a Roberts wrap maybe someone can help me with a write up about the benefits of using a Roberts wrap on bait casting rods.
There are several brands of rod finishes out there. I think Flexcote and Aftcote are 2 of the more popular brands. They both give a good finish but Aftcote dries a bit slower giving a little more time to work with it. The extra time might be an advantage for some. I usually use Aftcote myself although I have used both successfully over the years. I think I tried Aftcote after they sent me an invitation to use their product. Neither company gives me their product so this is not like a paid endorsement.
First off I make sure my rod is clean. Remember that I put my fore grip on after the decorative wrap was finished. Meaning that there could be some cork dust on the thread. I lesson the tendency for this by running water through the fore grip after I have reamed to the correct size but there still may be a piece or two of dust left on the thread. A very soft bristled paint brush works well for this. Caned air will work but will have a tendency to moisten the thread.
I also give my decorative wrap one last look before applying the epoxy. It is not uncommon for a thread or two to be out of place and the epoxy will give the thread a magnifying effect making all flaws much more visible.
I am going to break this up into a couple of different post to keep it from reading like a novel.
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Now that we know that the guides are straight and all thread is clean and in it's proper place it is time to mix the epoxy. I am going to make the assumption that everyone knows that the rod has to be rotating to apply the finish. Keep a propane torch handy that a very low flame can be maintained on to pop the air bubbles as you go is also considered good planing.
There are a couple of different ways to mix the epoxy. First off it is imperative to make sure that the 2 parts are measured to be the same amount for each part. I use the small plastic mixing cups that have several different types of measuring amounts molded in the cup. After I have determined how much I am going to mix I will take a fine tip felt pen and highlight the 2 measuring amounts for both parts of the epoxy. I know that this is not necessary but it helps me see the measuring amounts and keeps me from making mistakes.
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As for mixing, you can either stir the epoxy extremely SLOWLY or you can do as I do and put the epoxy in a mixing cup and put the cup in a Pac Bay mixer. The mixer rotates some where around 18 rpms and has a silver cylinder in it that rolls in the cup while the mixer is spinning and mixes the epoxy leaving very few bubbles.
Mix the epoxy completely which takes 3 or 4 minutes. You will be able to visually see if the epoxy is thoroughly mixed. I take a little more time with the Aftcote than with the Flexcote but remember that the Aftcote cures a little slower so I am in less of a hurry.
If you plan on building very many rods I would recommend the epoxy mixer.
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As for applying the epoxy to the rod I use a standard hobby brush but I don't use the brush end I use the handle end. Be certain before you start applying the epoxy that there are no bubbles in it. Bubbles in it before being applied will make getting rid of air bubble after applied more difficult. Remember that the rod is rotating in the rod drying motor. I put the epoxy on pretty thick on the first pass holding my cup of epoxy under the rod as I go so the overage goes back into the cup. While I am applying the epoxy thickly I am NOT filling up the cavities on any hook keepers or guides. Try to get a good even coat of epoxy that covers all thread. Work slowly and methodically so as not to make a mess on the rod, being careful to get an even "band" of epoxy at the end of a piece of thread termination so that it looks neat. The tip end of a spinning guide can take a bit of getting use to making an even end to the epoxy but fret not. If the epoxy is not even or what could be called a "clean" termination a q-tip with alcohol will straighten it right up. If a mistake is made on the hook keeper cavity a very light amount of canned air can be used to blow out the cavity. Just time it as the rod is turning to hit the cavity with air at just the right moment to clear the epoxy at that spot.
Getting the epoxy right is the part that keeps many people from building rods. With patience this process can easily be learned and mastered. I think I mentioned I learned to build rods by reading a book. I never saw it done before doing it the first time. 35 years ago there was no such thing as a U-tube video. I'm not that bright so if I could figure it out I am confident that anyone else can also.
Once you have applied your epoxy examine it very closely as the rod is rotating. You will be able to see air bubbles that will form in the epoxy. Some of this happens naturally and some of it happens in the process of putting the epoxy on the rod. This is where the propane torch comes in. When I first learned rod building all the books said to use an alcohol lamp on the air bubbles but I quickly figured out that a propane torch was much more efficient at this. At least for me. With a very low flame pass over the air bubbles and the bubbles will pop. If you get the epoxy to hot with the flame instead of popping the air bubbles it will boil and you will be stuck with a lot more air bubbles to pop. If you get to close to anything else you will burn your house down and you won't have to worry about getting your epoxy right
When popping the air bubbles the epoxy will heat and thin. Some of the epoxy will drip off. If to much drips off and you think your epoxy is to thin just add a little more to build it back up. A second coat can be applied if necessary.
