Absolutely needs to come up. Motor is zero doubt too low.
Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
Very nice, looks as good as a factory bought, and it’s hard to describe the feeling one gets, from doing a job themselfs, not many guys can do a job like that, something right there to be proud of. Yes sir a nice looking boat.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Absolutely needs to come up. Motor is zero doubt too low.
Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
Mitch I was careful to put it back in the same hole that it was in prior to taking it off. It’s in the 2nd hole down. The motor has been run in the 2nd and 3rd holes during its lifetime. Paint was missing around both sets of holes.
Thanks for all the compliments and help with the porpoising issue guys, I truly appreciate them all. I’ll raise the motor and report back to let you guys know what effect that had. I meant to raise it today but that just didn’t happen
Slabprowler LIKED above post
Great job!
Sent from my iPhone using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
FurFlyin out of curiosity about how much weight did the extension from the old factory deck add ? I'm assuming you didn't weld any of your new work directly to the hull .
absolutely, you can bring that motor up, being a hyperlift haul they really like setback on the motor, a 6" jack plate is good but a 10" is better. i have a 2014 h18 and i run a 6" jack plate with my motor at 4" (PTP) Pad to Prop. which means you measure the pad of the boat is level along with the motors cavitation plate, measure to the ground from the pad of the boat then measure the center of the prop to the ground and subtract the two measurements, that will give you your measurement. 4.5" is usually a good place to start, but if your not running a water pressure gauge you have to be a little less aggressive with this. check whats the lowest pressure that you can run safety, i know that my motor will run at 12psi safety yours my vary. doing this will wake this boat up, i gained about 3-4 MPH and about 5-600 RPMS on top end doing this from when it was set from the factory, changing props is also something to consider, if you are running a Power Tech Prop they are the worst, i keep mine for a spare, they are extremely hard to turn. I am offering this up as an option, instead of diving into all kinds of different options, Yes lifting you motor will greatly improve how your boat runs.
if you jump over to Bass Boat Central there is an Xpress thread with tons of information on setups. -Link(Xpress Boats
Last edited by Cobayashi; 03-20-2018 at 10:05 AM.
Ask Big River Marine. He sells them
Great job on the restore. Ima too old to cut the muster any more.
Member BS Pro-Staff and Billbob Pro-Staff
Proud Member of Team Geezer... authorized by: billbob and "G"
I figured the weight of the aluminum yesterday and if I’m remembering right I came up with around 50 lbs. The trolling motor is heavier than the one that was on it and I can’t remember if I added that in with the 50lbs or not. Both added together still won’t weigh more the battery that was originally under the front deck.
i added a water pressure gauge when I redid the console
Thabks for all the replies and advice on the porpoising. Our cable/Internet is still out from the storms last night so I’m not going to try and respond to all the posts. Me and this phone don’t get along that good.
I raised the motor one hole today and took it for a quick test drive. I had to get way up in a creek to find water smooth enough to be able to tell anything about it. It helped a tremendous amount. I was able to run the throttle back up to 5000 rpm and trim it up enough to acheive 45-46 mph. Any more trim or throttle than that would cause her to start bouncing again. I have a SS prop on the way and if it makes as much difference as raising the motor one hole, the porpoising will be gone. If it doesn't get rid of it, I'll save my pennies and get a jack plate.
Truman_Sully, DHC LIKED above post