Thread: single pole jigging question

10ft duck commander double touch with a solo and a 11 ft ACC green crappie Styx rear seat both with Power Pro slick 8 15 lb braid.

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Lately 10' B and M Richard Williams Crappie Wizard, Sunline 12lb braid w/fluorocarbon leader, and a 1/4oz jig or double 1/4oz jigs.

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Using braided line I usually place a small barrel swivel with a piece of mono attached to it and then the jig. I’ve never had a problem with the Sufix 832 sticking to the rod. As far as sensitive rods go I still build my own and have never seen a off the shelf rod that would match them.

Would you mind sharing the rod blanks and components you use? I have built a few rods but have not been able to find much on crappie rods. pm if you prefer. Thanks.

Originally Posted by crappie wrangler

Using braided line I usually place a small barrel swivel with a piece of mono attached to it and then the jig. I’ve never had a problem with the Sufix 832 sticking to the rod. As far as sensitive rods go I still build my own and have never seen a off the shelf rod that would match them.

11 ft BnM Custom Crappie with rear seated cork handle , using BnM pro 100 spinning reels or Synergy underspins. Trying Mr Crappie Hi-vis 8#. (Looks good so far)

Originally Posted by Skippa Chippa

I have a question to the guys that use braided line do you have a problem with the line sticking to the rod between the eyes? If so what do you do to prevent this .

Never had a problem and in fact I'm able to cast 1/16 oz lures quite a distance using 10# test braid.

Most of my crappie fishing is done in water between 30' and 65' deep. Generally I am vertical jigging without minnows. That being said I prefer a 7' St Croix rod built for a bait casting reel. My favorite 7' is a 2SW70LM. The 2 means SCII not a 2 piece blank but a newer model also works as I have some 3's also. I usually align the guides in a Roberts Wrap placement making the 180* turn over the distance of 4 guides. My favorite long rod would be a GLoomis F1084 which are no longer available. Before Shamino bought out GLoomis and quit selling blanks they used to have a lifetime warranty. Break one for any reason and just scrape the guides off and send it back and they would send you a new blank. I have repaired my last remaining GLoomis long rod 3 times and am still using it. Since GLoomis quit selling blanks I have Gone to St Croix. I have several SC 9' 5 weight fly rods that I have built for crappie fishing with a spinning reel. I think the blank number is 42F905.2. I have made a few hundred of these over the years and have never had a complaint.

The key to getting maximum sensitivity out of the rod is to glue the reel seat solid to the rod blank. This is achieved by using an expanding glue. It takes a lot of time for just gluing a reel seat but the results are worth the effort. Step by step would be to glue the rear grip to the blank and then after choosing the desired reel seat use a graphite arbor to fill the void between the reel seat and the rod blank. 1 arbor for a bait casting seat and 2 arbors for a spinning real seat. Spinning Reel seat: after reaming arbors for a snug fit to the rod blank use a small amount of glue on the rear grip side to glue the arbor to the rod bland and the reel seat to the arbor keeping rod spline in appropriate alignment. Remember that the expanding glue will expand out and make a mess on the reel seat and rear grip so you must monitor it and keep the glue wiped off that expands out. Once that portion has dried begin pouring glue in the space between the rod blank and the reel seat and letting it expand until it gets close enough to the for grip end that you can place the forward graphite arbor in until it sets just below the the end of the reel seat. Again being careful not to let the expanding glue get on the rod blank or reel seat. For me this takes between 12 and 16 hours just to glue the reel seat. Because the reel seat is glued solidly to the rod blank it transfers maximum sensitivity. I know this seems like a lot of effort just to glue on a reel seat but it is the difference from an off the shelf rod and the best that money can buy.

The process is the same for a bait casting reel seat except that only one graphite arbor is used because the bait casting reel seat narrows at the rear grip end. If it is an exposed blank reel seat particular attention will need to be used on the exposed section of the blank to keep the glue wiped off as it expands out. I usually start with using just a little bit of glue at a time until all openings that glue can expand out are sealed.

When wiping off the excess glue I use Isotropic Alcohol. If you use anything "hotter" it will peal the finish off the blank and reel seat. If any excess glue is allowed to dry on the blank or reel seat it won't be coming off. For that reason I usually remove the front reel hood that is the threaded hood before gluing and then replace it before installing the front grip.

This is what works for me but then again I don't compete with Walmart on price for a rod. This may be more info than you wanted and it is worth every penny that it cost

Originally Posted by crappie wrangler

Using braided line I usually place a small barrel swivel with a piece of mono attached to it and then the jig. I’ve never had a problem with the Sufix 832 sticking to the rod. As far as sensitive rods go I still build my own and have never seen a off the shelf rod that would match them.

Note to self, read whole thread before posting........

What glue do you use?