I'll try to make a video this spring and post on youtube about the setup.
one 8 footer and then a 6.5' on the other side, 3rd pole if used is shorty fairy wand 5.5' UL
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I meant to behave, but there were just way too many other options available at the time.
a video would be great, but hopefully by then ill be out experimenting and learning for myself, but it never hurts to watch how more experienced people do it.
i know they arent ideal, but would the simple clamp on rod holders work for starting longling? the cheap ones that just clamp on the side of the boat that are like 10 bucks. i know they wouldnt be perfect, but i already have two that i got for free from a sports show. would they be adequate enough to give me an idea if longlining is for me?
I tried the clamp ons before I got driftmasters and it never worked out. BTW, I have HI-TEKS now! No turning back
If youre paying $10 apiece for the cheapos you can have these instead.
Package of 6 Heavy Duty Rod Holders P G series - eBay (item 260732310233 end time Feb-10-11 18:58:42 PST)
You can make ya some T-bars from galvanized pipe and come up with some kind of homemade clamps. Just another way of thinking...
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.CrappieHuntMike LIKED above post
I was under the impression that in longline your poles are positioned on the aft side of the boat and you travel forward, but it sounds like you mount your rods forward and travel in reverse using your trolling motor? The difference between spider rigging and long lining being your direction of travel?
Could someone elaborate on depth control vs amount of line out and how you know how deep you are running at a given speed? I have assumed that you are not using bobbers for depth control. I may be way off on the whole idea of longlineing.
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No, rods located in the front are based on being able to control the TM that is mounted in the front of the boat. The boat direction is forward. Considering the speed, 0.7-1.2mph moving the boat in reverse woud be difficult.
In both spider rigging and longlining boat direction is the same, forward. The main difference is the speed. Spider rigging is generally a crawl. Longlining is generally a walk. One can also troll lipped crankbaits which require moving even faster to get the baits down.
Depth control is attained by considering many factors, jig weight, line wgt, body style and amount of line out. There is a 'sweet spot' where the amount of line out provides the deepest bait. More line doesn't help. Getting the feel of how much line vs depth is best learned by experience, which doesn't take long.
I have never used bobbers and suspect it wouldn't work well.
Uks, good writeup! I offer some possible questions:
"What happens if you hang up?"
This happens from time to time but generally one trys to keep lures running JUST above cover. If only one or two lures gets hung up, I loosen the drag on the reels (which I keep all loose), pick up one, throw the bail to get the line in hand and gently pull to either straighten the hook or break off. If three or more get hung, I stop TM, reel up ones not hung and troll backward to get the all unhung/broke off. This doesn't happen very often.
"How do I know when I catch a fish? What about setting the hook?"
This is simple. Since the boat is moving at a decient pace setting the hook is generally not necessary. One knows if a fish is on by watching the rod tips. They will buck and bow nicely when a fish is on. Once on I try to get fish's head above the water quickly and 'ski' them to the boat as fast as possible. ANY slack will allow them to get off quickly.