Thread: what is the absolute best cover to drop

Cut the limbs where a limb joins and leave a nub 2-3" long. Would go for limbs 4-6` long and angle them outwards by rotating them to find their furthest point out then add the cement. Would go denser with some buckets including finer smaller branches and then sparser with the deeper 1s, maybe at a 3:1 ratio. Even those smaller limbs will last as long as many "C" trees...consider it an long term `investment`...

Hedge will last a VERY long time. Even with the Zebras I have some in Perry that are 15 years old.

Al

Originally Posted by haugboss

Hedge will last a VERY long time. Even with the Zebras I have some in Perry that are 15 years old.

Al

Exactly what i needed to know........

Looking at pallets also but I have lots of buckets / kitty litter buckets that I figure I could do several every weekend and "Hopefully" before I know it I could have 50 or so and then do a drop day to run them to a spot / spots.

How many buckets would ya'll think is good to go in each spot (15-20?). Thinking 15-25 fow areas off of channels or points...

Originally Posted by hatchieman

dont mean to be a stickler but I was just looking for a simple answer, not a thesis report.

I will make 40+ of these and they will be dropped in lines from deep water to shallow on hard bottom surfaces, with 2-3 at each drop spot

Sometime I think we fishermen over think things. I made some fancy bamboo buckets with concrete bases. It took some time to make and then haul to the lake. Then I fished with one of the most successful guys on our SC site and I discovered he just used blow down tree tops or may be cut some scrub gum and oak. The difference?? He has hundreds of these all over the lake in varying depths and bottom structures. He fished a single pole jig and runs from one pile to the next. When I fished with him, we would catch one or two from a pile and move to the next one, etc. Some were only 20 or 30 yards apart. We would fish around it and if we did not get a bite in 3 or 4 minutes, off to the next one.
There is work involved in putting them out and it is work to fish as many piles as fast as we did, but his results are outstanding.

I guess the point to this is it is better to have 50 piles that are just plain old tree tops than 25 of a bamboo or plastic or some other construction.
He is constantly adding to existing ones or making new ones.
Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by SeaRay

Sometime I think we fishermen over think things. I made some fancy bamboo buckets with concrete bases. It took some time to make and then haul to the lake. Then I fished with one of the most successful guys on our SC site and I discovered he just used blow down tree tops or may be cut some scrub gum and oak. The difference?? He has hundreds of these all over the lake in varying depths and bottom structures. He fished a single pole jig and runs from one pile to the next. When I fished with him, we would catch one or two from a pile and move to the next one, etc. Some were only 20 or 30 yards apart. We would fish around it and if we did not get a bite in 3 or 4 minutes, off to the next one.
There is work involved in putting them out and it is work to fish as many piles as fast as we did, but his results are outstanding.

I guess the point to this is it is better to have 50 piles that are just plain old tree tops than 25 of a bamboo or plastic or some other construction.
He is constantly adding to existing ones or making new ones.
Hope this helps.

Keep them small and put out lots of them. This what I do no matter type of cover I sink. I have over 400 in my local lake on GPS and single pole jigs. Not unusual to hit 20 to 40 spots a trip. Helps to space them in rows about 100' apart. If one holds fish build one each side out 100' and keep adding another as long as the keep working. When I have 6 to 12 tops in a row ,I call it a milk run. Sure beats motoring around the lake when I can start on one end and hit them all using my trolling motor. A cheap depthfinder and handheld GPS sure helps too.

I would try about 5 of those buckets thrown in a circle and sweeten if you aren't happy with the results. Better than putting 20 buckets in a non productive area.

Agree absolutely that quantity beats `quality` in this instance. HOWEVER, for spots you KNOW produce well, YES go with the best longest lasting attractors you can come up with. But for the majority, numbers and where matter more. Shallow to deep lines seem to work best over all; regardless of the season or weather, if your rows go from say 8 to even 20 fow chances are somewhere on it there WILL be fish. And if not that particular 1, them the next 1, or the next. They are not ALL going to be empty...

Originally Posted by INTIMIDATOR

In short, Wax Myrtle is deer resistant, heat and drought tolerant and grows fast in even poor soil. What more could you want in a carefree shrub?

If a partition or screen is your objective, then Wax Myrtle performs flawlessly. This shrub, with its dense foliage and quick-growing nature can easily be planted in multiples and shaped into a privacy hedge with occasional pruning.

With proper training, the Wax Myrtle also serves well as a small accent tree. This plant’s foliage and berries are pleasingly fragrant, making it a great addition to your outdoor living space.

The Wax Myrtle blooms in the spring with tiny yellow-green flowers that are daintily aromatic.

Female Myrtle’s will bear fruit berries that grow in clusters, and are green with an attractive bluish-white wax coating that lends them a vaporous gray appearance. The fruit matures in the fall and remains throughout winter, attracting a multitude of birds.

As a point of interest, the Wax Myrtle is also known as a Bayberry, because the wax can be separated from the fruit in boiling water to make fragrant bayberry scented candles. If you are crafty and enjoy making candles, this plant is a must have.

Known for its adaptable nature, the Wax Myrtle will put up with moist or dry soil and even grows well in infertile soils, but you’ll get a truly crowning specimen with a bit of proper watering and fertilizer.

Wax Myrtles grow in either full sun or partial shade, and enjoy quite a lengthy life span. These plants are so trouble-free they practically take care of themselves.

Myrtle is “green” in more ways than one, as it returns nitrogen to the soil and organically repels insects. Clip a few sprigs of this evergreen and place them around your closet or inside dresser drawers for a spicy hint of bayberry--you’ll never buy another commercially-sold sachet again.

These fast-growing shrubs can grow as much as 5 feet per year, and reach mature heights upwards of 20 feet with an equivalent spread. So if shade is your goal, this tree certainly fits that bill.

This is what everyone in my area uses. very good material.CF