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Thread: Longlining Questions?

  1. #61
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    Don't over look bucktail, marabou, hackle jigs and many other tied jigs in your longlining mix. At time the crappie doesn't want much movement in the bait and tied jigs really step up at these times just like the baby shads in plastic does. Be willing to change up baits to find the right combo of the day. A lot of times just a head color change will be the difference of an empty livewell or a full one.
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    Guys looking over this thread I believe it needs to become a sticky also. We try not to put many things up top of the page but this thread on longlining and the jigging thread are two threads that will be a learning tool.
    Last edited by STUMP HUNTER; 02-18-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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    I'll try to ask enough dumb questions to keep it interesting. I'm mostly a dock/marina shooter, and night stalker so this is a learning process. I understand the basics, but if the learning curve can be straightened a little, it's worth it.

    I understand most longline when the fish are "shallow". What is "shallow". Does anyone use heavier heads (1/8th) to target deeper fish, or is it better to just tightline/spider rig on deeper fish (whatever "deep") is.

  4. #64
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    I pull 1/8 most of the winter to target deeper fish and even have pulled 1/4 oz jigs. You will see where some adds a split shot to their line, that is doing the same thing as the bigger heads do.
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    I longline year round. I troll mainly 1/16 heads and as fish are suspend down different depth I add different size split shot to get down where the fish are at in water. I have found at what depth my jig run with different size shot so you can put the jig a foot above the fish and they will usually bite the jig in winter time but it has to be right at the fish. In spring time they will chase a jig more than in winter. I like curly tails , sliders and pull handtied jig and tubes also in the winter . The fish will show what they will bite . I troll 12 rods and start out with and different kind of jigs and what fish bite I change to that. If bite stops change color it can make a successful trip most times I find a flat at 20 up to 8 feet and pull the jigs when rod tips start move they are dragging th bottom that how i find how deep I am running and speed effects this also. Take the time t learn how deep the jigs are running will make have your jig in strike zone and be able to ctach more fish time well spent to learn this. I have been able to catch alot more fish since I done this. Making s curves will show if they want it deeper or shallower as you turn the inside jigs go deeper and outside become shallower and which side bite tells what fish want. I still learning the more I fish the more faith I have in a method the better you get at fishing.
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    Guess I need to get busy pouring heads. This thread is Golden. Thanks for the info and the sticky. I'm sorry to the OP, for butting in, but I didn't want to start another thread. This is shaping up to be a great hallmark thread for longling on CDC
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaRay View Post
    When they first developed the hi vis line, someone asked a Bass Pro at a seminar why they developed it. The Pro said it was so the fish could follow the line down to your lure.
    Makes sense to me.
    Now that's really funny !!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squall Line View Post
    Now that's really funny !!!
    I've got some five 10' pro anglers and six 12' tightline specials. Leaning towards the TLS for this, but they may be a touch stiff for 1/16oz.

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    More limber poles will probably work the best. I'm using cheap silstars. You'd double 'em over with an ounce of lead.
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  10. #70
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    I use Silstar's as well. they are very limber, but I find them excellent for long lining as no hook set is necessary. Once the rod loads up, the fish is hooked.

    Quote Originally Posted by gabowman View Post
    More limber poles will probably work the best. I'm using cheap silstars. You'd double 'em over with an ounce of lead.
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    One rod, one jig, one fish at a time.


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