Guys looking over this thread I believe it needs to become a sticky also. We try not to put many things up top of the page but this thread on longlining and the jigging thread are two threads that will be a learning tool.
Don't over look bucktail, marabou, hackle jigs and many other tied jigs in your longlining mix. At time the crappie doesn't want much movement in the bait and tied jigs really step up at these times just like the baby shads in plastic does. Be willing to change up baits to find the right combo of the day. A lot of times just a head color change will be the difference of an empty livewell or a full one.
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Ascend 133X 13' - MotorGuide Xi3 & Mercury 4
Guys looking over this thread I believe it needs to become a sticky also. We try not to put many things up top of the page but this thread on longlining and the jigging thread are two threads that will be a learning tool.
Last edited by STUMP HUNTER; 02-18-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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Ascend 133X 13' - MotorGuide Xi3 & Mercury 4JP_Raleigh LIKED above postcglarsen thanked you for this post
I'll try to ask enough dumb questions to keep it interesting. I'm mostly a dock/marina shooter, and night stalker so this is a learning process. I understand the basics, but if the learning curve can be straightened a little, it's worth it.
I understand most longline when the fish are "shallow". What is "shallow". Does anyone use heavier heads (1/8th) to target deeper fish, or is it better to just tightline/spider rig on deeper fish (whatever "deep") is.
I pull 1/8 most of the winter to target deeper fish and even have pulled 1/4 oz jigs. You will see where some adds a split shot to their line, that is doing the same thing as the bigger heads do.
PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM GEEZER ---------
Ascend 133X 13' - MotorGuide Xi3 & Mercury 4
I longline year round. I troll mainly 1/16 heads and as fish are suspend down different depth I add different size split shot to get down where the fish are at in water. I have found at what depth my jig run with different size shot so you can put the jig a foot above the fish and they will usually bite the jig in winter time but it has to be right at the fish. In spring time they will chase a jig more than in winter. I like curly tails , sliders and pull handtied jig and tubes also in the winter . The fish will show what they will bite . I troll 12 rods and start out with and different kind of jigs and what fish bite I change to that. If bite stops change color it can make a successful trip most times I find a flat at 20 up to 8 feet and pull the jigs when rod tips start move they are dragging th bottom that how i find how deep I am running and speed effects this also. Take the time t learn how deep the jigs are running will make have your jig in strike zone and be able to ctach more fish time well spent to learn this. I have been able to catch alot more fish since I done this. Making s curves will show if they want it deeper or shallower as you turn the inside jigs go deeper and outside become shallower and which side bite tells what fish want. I still learning the more I fish the more faith I have in a method the better you get at fishing.
TowboatTroller, JP_Raleigh LIKED above post
Guess I need to get busy pouring heads. This thread is Golden. Thanks for the info and the sticky. I'm sorry to the OP, for butting in, but I didn't want to start another thread. This is shaping up to be a great hallmark thread for longling on CDC
TowboatTroller LIKED above post
More limber poles will probably work the best. I'm using cheap silstars. You'd double 'em over with an ounce of lead.
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.
Professional Crappie Removal
Safe and ethical
One rod, one jig, one fish at a time.
JimB LIKED above post