It isn't any good for longlining jigs for crappie as it jumps by 1 mph at each speed and 1 once is the smallest weight and it jumps by 1 oz each time going up . Maybe for striper fishing it would give some good info to help.
Here is something I found today. Looks pretty good. Do you guys think these numbers look close? Does anyone use this?
Online trolling depth calculator by LivePrecise
1/32= .88 g
1/16 = 1.77 g
3/32 = 2.6 g
1/8 = 3.54 g
3/16 = 5.31g
1/4 = 7.08 g
Mono
4lb =.008 in
6lb =.009 in
8lb=.011in
10lb=.012in
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It isn't any good for longlining jigs for crappie as it jumps by 1 mph at each speed and 1 once is the smallest weight and it jumps by 1 oz each time going up . Maybe for striper fishing it would give some good info to help.
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What about by using the gram weight vs the oz weight?
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I put in the weights and sizes you provided for a 1/16th jig running .8 mph around 60 and 90 feet behind boat with 6# line and it says 4.5' deep. Mine run approx. 8' deep when pulling that setup and at that speed and distance behind boat. Therefore, I'd dis the chart and spend some time on the water in the shallows and find out what theyre really running from your setup. remember....NOTHING is better than time spent on the water.
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.
Just go by the weights of the jigs. No need to make it difficult and some time spent pulling Jigs you will see that the setups are not hard to learn. Tie some 1/16 oz jigs and get on a shallow flat and keep notes of line out and slow down until the jigs start hitting bottom. Let more lime out and repeat. Then do the same with a light jig and heavy jigs. A day on the water testing is the best classroom.
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I totally understand that time on the water is the best. I wonder if total weight of jighead and plastics together would have it come closer on the numbers though.
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As both Stump and Gabow stated, the chart is not really an accurate gauge for long lining. So many variables come into play that only on the water experimentation will provide the best pattern for that day of fishing. A few examples of variables are wind and current. No jig heads are precisely weighted regardless of stated weight on package. Line diameter may differ. No two cast are identical in length. The grubs used for bait will have variences. As you see, many things come into play. Trolling is a trial and error process. Your sonar will give you a target depth. If what your doing isn't working, keep changing until you unlock the pattern for that particular day.
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True. Example: rods tilted up versus down on the back or sides of the boat will change how deep your jigs run by possibly a foot or two. Much less if you have like a striper or catfish bar across the back of your boat with rod holders on it. Like Ronnie said....cut a few barbs off a few jigs, start trolling towards shallow water, and see where the rods bounce and take notes. Wont take you long and when you see fish on the sonar you'll know ALMOST EXACTLY how to attack. ('Course that depends on your extent of going thru the learning curb on the shallow flats with different jigs and speeds.) I hear ALOT of folks saying how deep a certain jig will run, but remember that all boats aren't designed the same so everybody wont experience the same results.
Health nuts are going to feel stupid someday, lying in hospitals dying of nothing.
Tbh haven't thought to cut the barbs off. Great tip
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