If your buffer is to large you'll remove some of the surface leaving a fin.
I had read somewhere that perhaps many of the “standard” Do-It mold cavities are not machined but may be cast. My small combo 1/32 and 1/24 ball jig head mold casts somewhat rough surfaced jigs. Fortunately the powder paint usually flows well enough to cover this up, but I’ve been wanting to try improving it.
Someone had mentioned buffing/polishing the cavities with a dremel tool, but I am worried that a “parting line” will show up if the two halves aren’t finished the same. Thinking back to a post about “WhackedItWithAHammer”, I wondered if I could find a hardened steel ball bearing the right size and smooth out the finish in a similar manner.
Anyone tried such a crazy idea?
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If your buffer is to large you'll remove some of the surface leaving a fin.
It is best that you do not mess with the cavity .
What snake river said. I tried the whack it with a hammer on a broken mold. Didn't work for me. I even bought a Jacobs mold for the smooth finish, but went back to do-it
Every time I come up with a great idea, I get into trouble.
- dan aka "Fishfried"
“Life is what you make it. Always has been. Always will be.” ― Grandma MosesCray LIKED above post
try getting the lead hotter and pouring at a rate that keeps mold warm enough ...also quality of lead can make a difference sometimes.
Might entirely be the mold....but I can tell you I have seen them come out looking different from the same mold just based on those two things.
When the lead and the mold are at the right temperature and the lead is fairly pure ...all things being equal..they can look different then one from a not so pure lead or lead not skimmed good...lead and mold not quite at right temp.
I preheat my molds on a hot plate and keep them on it while loading hooks, so I don’t think the mold is too cold.
I use a Lee bottom pour pot and usually have it set between 4 and 5. I’ve never fluxed any of the lead I use, but I try to keep it skimmed pretty well.