Troilling motor plug/receptacle question

[Gone Fishin']

24V Minnkota foot controlled trolling motor, no transducer or spot lock.
It was working when I used it, tho I had to clean blue/green corrosion off the receptacle on the boat the first time I used it this season. The cover to that receptacle is broken in half and I guess moisture got in.

I leave for a couple weeks turkey hunting and my daughter borrows the boat. Brought it back, said TM didn't work for them, not for the entire week as I understand. Son-in-law isn't a dummy by any means, replaced the receptacle and plug on the TM with new. But he used two prong stuff, I had three prong. Still not working. Batteries show charged, where do I start on this?

How do I test the TM to see if it works first? Remove receptacle and TM plug and go wire to wire?

If the trolling motor itself tests good, where do I look next? Back to three prong stuff?

I have a Harbor Freight meter/tester to I can check with that if someone give very explicit instructions.
Any help appreciated.

[spartannation]

Does it have a dedicated breaker/fuse?

[Kevin22]

A multimeter would have told if the plug/wiring is broken. If the motor is getting +20V past the plug and not working, the trolling motor needs servicing.

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[rnvinc]

I have accidentally wired the wrong connection in the 3 wire plug before (only needing 2 of the circuits) ... definately a possibility ...

Test with a meter the pins in the receptacle to see which 2 pins were used ... then compare with the pins used in the TM plug ...

Rickie

[Grainraiser]

Run it directly to your battery and see if works. If not you will know it is not the plug. You will then need to take the cover off and look around for any type of shortage. If nothing their you will need to take it to the shop because it will likely be your control board.

[BabyFinster]

I had my Minn Kota Ultrex quit. It is a 24v unit. Be sure to check you wires at the battery and the jumper between the two batteries to make 24v. Mine was corroded in the middle of the wire. It showed continuity, but could not carry the volts or amps. Run your trolling motor directly to each one of the 12 V batteries and see if it turns. It’ll turn a little slower being 12 V but I’ll let you know if your motor control handler could. Be sure to run continuity test on all your wiring and fuses as well. if it just quit, it’s more than likely a corrosion issue.


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[Barnacle Bill]

How old is the motor? If I remember correctly some of the real old ones require 3 wires. Maybe that was just the 12/24 ones.

[Gone Fishin']

How old is the motor? If I remember correctly some of the real old ones require 3 wires. Maybe that was just the 12/24 ones.

It's a 2018 model. And fuses, I didn't even think of checking that! Thanks for the input guys.

[canebreaker]

I got on the lake one day and found my trolling motor wouldn't work. On the side of the foot peddle is a switch, forward/reverse, first speed only. I removed the peddle from the base and found the top of the rubber boot on the switch was worn off. I could have searched for a new boot. I sanded a 5 hour energy cap to make it thinner, open side sanded. Filled it with silicone and placed it on the switch button.
The boat is a '05 model. Repair done in 2011. Been working ever since.

[Kevin22]

How old is the motor? If I remember correctly some of the real old ones require 3 wires. Maybe that was just the 12/24 ones.

3 wire is for 12/24 motors to run both. But 12/24 motors havent been used since the early 90s and were usually 35/45lb so it would be hard to believe he still has one running.

Any case, it would still work with two wires, you just lose the switching option and stuck with one voltage.. if this is the case, flip the switch and see if it works.

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