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Thread: Elite rod holders

  1. #21
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    Default Elite rod holders


    JW, the top adjustment on these holders is for getting the distance you need towards or away from you not to adjust the rod tips, as the ball mount does that for you without tools. You just push or pull the holder until the tip is the right distance you like off of the water. Like I said, NO TOOLS NEEDED!!!!! You can go from a 1/4 oz weighted rig to a 3 oz weighted rig with a simple push/pull adjustment for the Rod tip out of the water or you can run multiple weight sizes at the same time and keep all of the Rod tips the same distance above the water. Makes seeing a light bite easy because you'll see the change in the height of the tip from the water with a fish on it when you set all the tips at the same level to start with.

    The lower you set the front Y of the actual Rod holder, the closer you pull the holder towards you. The higher you adjust it, the farther you push the holder away from you. I sell tons of them every year, and I push and pull cranks with mine all the time. No troubles. I do use the Tite-Lok 5841 T-bar in the rear for straight pulling tho.

    I'm considering selling the ones I have now to get some new black ones for my new Ranger demo.
    Last edited by BigRiverMarine; 10-06-2016 at 07:46 AM.
    We only sell the Best. Ranger, Xpress, Yamaha, Suzuki, Tohatsu.
    Likes arkansasbowhunter, luvpt LIKED above post

  2. #22
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    Brm did you have the mods done also. Thanks for input.

    My main reason for maybe going this route personally is because the tbar system really obscures my driving vision for my short no neck fat rump. I have to lean to side not to see decent.

  3. #23
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    Default Elite rod holders

    Quote Originally Posted by arkansasbowhunter View Post
    Brm did you have the mods done also. Thanks for input.

    My main reason for maybe going this route personally is because the tbar system really obscures my driving vision for my short no neck fat rump. I have to lean to side not to see decent.
    Oh yea!!! Mine have been Fixed with the correct mods.

    My main reason for using them over a T-bar system is that when a fish hits a pole and you don't see the initial bite, only the holder that gets hit shakes, NOT the entire rack. A T-bar shakes when a fish hits, and if you don't see that hit right off the bat, you can't tell which rod was hit because the whole rack shakes from it.

    I know that Steve changed to this system from the Spyderlocs because those racks shake so bad when a fish hits them. The Tite-Lok T-bar shakes also, but not near as bad as the others because of the wider FLAT T-bar.
    Last edited by BigRiverMarine; 10-06-2016 at 07:57 AM.
    We only sell the Best. Ranger, Xpress, Yamaha, Suzuki, Tohatsu.

  4. #24
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    Default Elite rod holders

    One more thing about the C&C or Widow-maker Rod holders. Do NOT use the one long track like I use. Use the individual tracks that come with them. The single track will cause them to shake just a little bit more than the individual tracks. It makes them more like an upside down T-bar. Since the T is mounted to the deck, it isn't very much shaking, but on a Hard Hit, they all will shake just a little. It takes More screw holes for the individual tracks, but well worth it for the tourney guys that MUST see which Rod got hit without searching for it. It lets you catch a few more fish in a days time. You know as well as I that a Big Fish hits lighter than a smaller fish. It's imperative that you find that bite in a tourney. One or two more Good Ones makes a huge difference at the weigh in. Elite rod holders
    We only sell the Best. Ranger, Xpress, Yamaha, Suzuki, Tohatsu.

  5. #25
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    Man I liked the whole rod rack shacking to wake me up Elite rod holders. If you get rid them and don't mind I will try yours out. I am in no hurry.
    Likes BigRiverMarine LIKED above post

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