Thread: Spincast reels - worth the money? ; basics; tips

My first spincast many years ago was a Zebco loaded with mono. I now use Zebco and Daiwa reels and found them up to the task same as spinning reels.

Spincast reels are nothing more than spinning reels with a cap. Line unwinds in a circular fashion same as spinning and wraps around the spool the same way except in reverse.

A with any reel, gear ratios are important in that they dictate how much line is brought in on each reel handle revolution. As important is line spool size - diameter, the larger the reel the greater the diameter.

One problem with using monofilament is line-memory illustrated by coils that don't allow the line to stay straight when slack after a cast. Tangles happen more often inside and outside the reel. Line twist makes memory more of a problem and the elasticity of mono misses distant hooksets.

I personally like braid because it has no memory, zero stretch and very little line twist. I like the way it unravels off the spool of spincast and spinning reels. Even using a 1/16 oz jig with soft plastic rigged, I can cast a very long distance, feel light strikes at that distance and set the hook better than a line that stretches.

Tip when loading line in a spincast reel:
You can take any mono or junk line and hand wrap it tightly around the spool to 80 % of the spools line capacity. Your casting distance is usually less than the 20 % of good line and breaking line from a snagged hook, still leaves you with enough line to keep casting.

I use a double uni-knot to connect mono backing to braid. But note: heavier test lines with larger diameters should be avoided because of an excess of friction when casting light lures. 10# test is the maximum test I'll use but 8 # test is very strong and has the diameter of 6# test mono.

Tip: when reeling in line, use the forefinger to put pressure on the line as it enters the hole. You always want the line to wrap tight around the spool. Loose wraps create loops inside the cover and prevent casting.

Tip: occasionally clean the bell - the part that revolves as the line in wrapped - using a metal cleaner. Follow this by using a silicone spray and polishing with a towel paper or cloth. Line casts easier with less friction from crap the builds on the edges of the bell.

A light action rod is usually the best rod for casting light lures from spinning or spincast reels. I like 5' 6" or 6' pistol-grip rod with spincast reels so as to use a wrist snap to cast lures sidearm or over the head. Getting under docks or limbs requires a side arm cast = right or left.

Tip: ever so often pull off the cap to see if the line is wrapped tight. Any loops should be removed by pulling line out until the loop or loose line is gone and then reel line in under pressure.

Originally Posted by Ketchn

The only draw back is beginners and big fish , it sinks the line into the spool and then they won’t cast for diddly

Thanks! - I forgot to mention the tip about drag setting!
Pull the line out at the reel with the line p/u engaged. Too much drag (like for any reel) risks breakoffs and line that gets buried when a large fish fights. Too little drag and hooksets may not penetrate deep enough especially when using light action rods. Braid has zero-stretch so the drag must be tested and adjusted if needed before or during every outing.

If you want to horse a fish away from cover or the trolling motor, use a forefinger over the cap's hole to increase drag temporarily and then let the fight continue.

I've posted photos on cdc of very large fish weighing over 4 lbs. - all caught using a spincast or spinning reel and a big part was a good drag setting. Baitcast reels I only use for catching bass and pike casting lures that weigh over 1/4 oz. Even baitcast reels must have the drag set properly.