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Thread: Updating and Upgrading My Skeeter F-80 Strada

  1. #51
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    tongue jack is on the wrong side
    HaHa Rojo haha

  2. #52
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    [mention]Rojo [/mention], do you plan on adding brakes to this? If so, which kit or setup do you plan on going with?
    If I'm not at work or taking kids to their activities, you might find me on "The Rez"

  3. #53
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    May 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjue1979 View Post
    [mention]Rojo [/mention], do you plan on adding brakes to this? If so, which kit or setup do you plan on going with?
    No Bud, this is a 15ft boat. I ordered spindles without flanges to built the new axle with. I have installed several surge disc brake kits with the galvanized or stainless rotors. I forget what brand but I can look and see if you're looking for a direction on some. The ones I used to put a set on my car dolly when I still used a Class A to travel, they worked fantastic on the car dolly. Made the Toad feel like it wasn't even hook to the coach.

  4. #54
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    Oh yeah, I forgot that your boat is smaller and lighter than mine. We can discuss this in a different thread in another sub on another day.
    If I'm not at work or taking kids to their activities, you might find me on "The Rez"

  5. #55
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    May 2011
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    Default Back on the Skeeter's Wiring

    Although yard work was the plan today continuous rain this morning sent me in a different direction.

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    I've had the wires pulled in for a while but today was termination day due to the rain.

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    I had to add a switch here on the console so I installed it in between the two others. Made for a "Shoe Horn" fit with the steering cable where it is. Still it wasn't too bad working thru the Tach hole. Push/Pull switches was the only option because of the dash thickness.

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    Personally I'm fond of hardwiring these timers in my Livewell circuits. I use to use the adjustable kind but found keeping it simple works for me. Here for simplicity I jump the timer output lead across the switch, easy-peasy. By tywraping the timer & leads to the other wiring I don't have to work about strain on the little wires from bouncing. I also add a Livewell Fill switch on the dash of my boats.

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    I added a Main Breaker under the Console in a easy to reach location. It is resettable. My other boats I have located the breaker at the battery switch, not doing that anymore.

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    The Fuse Box is terminated. I pulled 3 extra conductors to the bilge and 2 extra to the bow. All 14 gauge so I'm pre-wired if another conductor is needed in the future.

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    The Trim & Tilt switch and Livewell Fill switches are both terminated & tested. Waiting on which Electronics I'm going to install on the bow. Like everything else, numerous brands & styles of drop electronics are in the stash to choose from. I have a old Garmin Echo 500c. Straight fishfinder in color that I love. I think that is all I'm going to install. Something I am considering is adding a extra seat base right up on the point of the forward deck for single pole fishing. Not installing a foot control trolling motor but a hand control with REVERSE, yeah. I like reverse especially in winter. No extension handle on the trolling motor sitting right on the bow fishing. The three large gauge conductors are for powering Serious Electronics if later I change my mind. They were the trolling motor supply wires.
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  6. #56
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    May 2011
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    Default Replacing the Fenders & Flipping the Trailer Upright

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    Using the Reciprocating saw & Lennox blades I cut thru the old welds removing both fenders. The frame mounts need squaring up I found the original fender mounts were different lengths. The fenders were so dented up I didn't catch it at first.

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    To square up I made a reference block to establish a consistent, parallel line for all 4 frame mounting points. After taking a sharpie to layout the metal to be removed I removed the excess with a Porta-Band.

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    I used the big grinder to dress up the steel to give me some decent metal to weld the fenders to. I have .024 Wire in the spool gun to help me prevent blowing a hole thru a fender while welding to the much thicker metal.

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    After welding the new fenders on I needed to rig up to flip the trailer frame without scratching the paint or denting the fenders. I pulled out the engine hoist, rigged a nylon strap up inside the boom to make the sling as short as possible. Lifting at one of the aft roller mounts I was able to easily flip the trailer over.

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    After putting the hoist back up I prepped the trailer for more primer and realized I still needed to strip the winch area on the Topside.

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    I left it this evening with everything that could get a coat of primer primed.
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  7. #57
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    Gonna be way better than when new.
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    "Wear your PFD" "No texting n driving" slab
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    Thanks Rojo thanked you for this post

  8. #58
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    May 2011
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    Default Finished the Trailer Enough to Put the Boat On

    Several projects going as usual our Hurricane window boards keep warping after use. I have had them stacked on the floor with blocking & 25# bags of lead shot to help them dry straight again. After dry I spread them around the shop to paint. I had 15 total to paint.

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    Check how bent the axle is, the fender is in the right location the tire is pushed backwards. I will build & install a new axle later. It is going to take a while till the paint cures so no launching in the near future anyway.

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    I like to install the carpet on the boards on the tailgate of a pickup. The height of the work area just makes it easier. After cutting the carpet I lay it finish side down then place the board over it. I only use Monel Staples 1/2in or longer for carpet installs.

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    I first pull tension longways stapling the carpet to hold the tension.

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    Now that I have the carpet under tension I start in the middle folding the edge of the carpet under then stapling it down the full length leaving about 12 inches from each end.

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    Now that the carpet is stapled the full length on the sides I switch to working the ends. First I remove the staples used to hold tension longways and use scissors to taper the carpet back to where the roll over starts.

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    After tucking the sides of the fold under I put lots of staples to hold the flap securely in place. You have to put enough staples so the flap stays very well.

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    I just lay the boards on the trailer for now as the rollers need to be installed.

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    With the rollers installed I fastened the bunks just like the factory did but used longer Lag Bolts.

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    With the Central American Gyre expected to spin off a tropical system I need to put the boat back on the trailer so I can move it around for storm prep. Till we are out of Hurricane threats I won't do a whole lot more on the trailer.

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    I will note I always upgrade bunk boards to 2x6's from 2x4's, seems once the upgrades are done the boats load and unload easier.
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  9. #59
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    Looks really really good.
    Thanks Rojo thanked you for this post

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDave336 View Post
    Looks really really good.
    I want to polish it out and fix the Flake. I already have a set of original Skeeter decals for it when the rest is complete. No fixin' the flake I will have to shoot more on & bury in clear gelcoat.
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