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Thread: Line guide size

  1. #1
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    Default Line guide size

    I am planning to build a 7 foot light action spinning rod and plan to use it for casting jigs and light weight lures, vertical jigging, and slip cork rigs. My question is, what you recommend for the size of the guides used and brand. The bobber stopper passing thru the guides is the main concern. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
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    I have no recommendations as to the exact ones for the task but if you go to mudhole.com you can see everything available from cheap to really!
    Listen to your gut over all the other voices.

  3. #3
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    This kind of depends greatly on what type of reel you are going to put on it (size). It would also greatly depend on what type of blank you are using. I say blank because I wouldn't put 100 dollars worth of high end guides on a 30 dollar blank! Just my opinion.

    The majority of the eyes that are out there are great for most applications. Depending on the type of line you are using, pay close attention to the type of ring you will be using. Some of the rings do not work well with braid and tend to cut. Over the last several years, the majority of the high end rods that I produce are built almost exclusivly from REC guide eyes. They are one of the lightest sets you can get and they do not bend or deform. In your application however, I probably wouldn't recommend them. They cast well but, because they do not have an internal ring, you get some reverburation back through the line while reeling. Not a big issue for a verticle jig rod (most of my high end builds are) but a huge deal when casting and reeling.

    For a 7 foot rod, I would probably go with an 8 eye count. Normally, when I get a new blank, one of the first things I do is attach the handle and the tiptop. I put on the size reel I intend (or the customer) intends to use on it. This gives me the appropriate stance off the blank. I thread the line through the tip and take a measurement of deflection from the first guide eye. I want as minimal deflection as possible.

    Historically, 40 inches is pretty standard from the tip to the first eye (or stripper eye) so we use that as a starting point.
    Based on a starting point of 40 inches, I took the liberty of creating a spacing chart for you (mathimatical) and also the recipe that I would use in regards to the eyes (if not purchasing a kit).

    From the tip:
    40 inches 20mm eye
    33 1/4 inches 12mm (could also be a 16mm)
    27 inches 10mm
    21 3/8 inches 8Lmm
    16 1/4 inches 8mm
    11 9/16 inches 7mm
    7 3/8 inches 6mm
    3 1/2 inches 6mm

    Stepping like this isn't always the way to go. Oftentimes, when you see a kit, you might see 20, 12, 6, 5,5,5,5. These can work equally as well. In my opinion, stepping your guides gives you an overall better casting ability on small light weight rods and light jig or bait applications. My go to rod is a 7'6 ultra light with 9 eyes and all of them are stepped very similary to what is above. My buddy built the exact same rod but utilized a kit with less stepping and he simply doesn't cast as far as I do.

    Hope this helps.
    I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"

  4. #4
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    Honestly, I let the intended reel for the rod dictate the guide size and placement and tend to view charts as a "starting point". Look into Fujis New Concept guide placement. Uses the intersection of the "continued" spool shaft and the blank as the choke guide placement, running guides placed based on even spacing and static test to fine tune. Stripper and reduction guides are placed based on guide height and a starting point of roughly 19" from the top of the spool. High frame, small ring guides work exceptionally well with this. Pac Bay Minima are lightweight and very inexpensive. Not a ceramic insert guide, so you get reduced weight and a larger inside diameter than a ceramic of the same size. I'm going to suggest the Match frames (M) for the reduction guides, and Fly (F) for the choker and running guides. I use size 4 for those, but seeing as you want to pass a bobber stop, Id think a 6 would work great.

  5. #5
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    First off, thank y’all for the reply’s and suggestions. The rod blank I am going to use is a S842-MHX. It came as a kit with the parts for a split grip and a set of crb guides that are the 20 12 6 5 5 5 5, ( I think, can’t put my hands on them right now to see). I will be using a pfluegur president 25 on it. I have another rod with a similar set of guides and when using it with bobber stopper and slip cork the small rings really interferes with the passage of the bobber stopper. I think I will go with the larger guide train as suggested by wicklundrh. Thanks !

  6. #6
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    Been using the microwave guides on rods the last few years. Built maybe 30, the microwave 1st guide is 19" from reel front, the theory being that eliminates the long expanse for line slap. It's proven to quiet the cast, lengthen the cast and makes a neat looking rod. Might consider, however on I have not built a 7' rod, all 9' or more
    Likes Jamesdean LIKED above post

  7. #7
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    I use Fuji K high frame guides and really like them. On About all my builds I use a 20H,12H,8M,5.5L to 4 or 5 runners. Normal set up is 10 guides plus a tip. Guide spacing really depends on the blank but you can start with a standard Guide spacing and adjust if you need to. I go to 11 guides plus a tip if the rod is really whippy and that's honestly about the only time I ever really have to change the guide spacing. If you want the Fuji guide spacing just DM me.

  8. #8
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    The S842 is the rod I am referencing above accept I use a 2 piece. The guide spacing that I use is a program developed by some math genius that allows you to enter the length of rod, the stripper eye placement, and the number of eyes to use. It uses a math formula to figure the ratio decrease between eyes. Probably one of the easiest ones I use and handy. The fuji chart is another good one to use.
    I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"

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