Crack in Jon boat

I have an older 1980`s model 14 ' Loweline aluminum jon boat and discovered today as I was getting it cleaned up for fishing a crack on the bottom near the transom. Hoping you can see my attached pictures with my poor computer skills:-)


My first thought was all the tv commercials I`ve seen for Flex Seal and ordering that, but I also read that this product was more temporary than permanent fix.

Another video looked more promising with a guy using aluminum welding rods and a blow torch.

The crack is on the bottom corner of the drain plug side of the boat and I did take on small amounts of water late last fishing season. My guess is that the crack is 2-3 inches.


What is my best option for fixing ?


Thanks

Take it to a welding shop that welds aluminum and get it fixed

Absolutely get it welded by a professional who can weld aluminum. IMO Flex Seal isn’t worth a plug nickel

I agree with getting it pro welded. I had a flat bottom 16ft MonArk that saw a lot of hard use in fresh and salt water. I had it welded up a few times. It was not cheap but it was welded correctly each time and never cracked or split in same place.

If you can.. Flip boat over and really look it over for tiny cracks. Draw a circle around them with a marker and have shop weld them up too..

I would recommend the cheapest option. Maybe spray it with flex seal and get a 12v pump to suck it out. Or save your money and just get a coffe can for bailer. Don't try to fix it with heat. My 2cents and worth what it cost ya

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Several options depending on how long you want it to last and what your willing to pay. Looks to be a sizeable dent in that corner of the boat caused the crack.

Most permanent and expensive option is to have it welded. I needed to have some welding done on a project boat I bought. It was expensive and hard for me to find someone to do it. Several people, part time welders turned down the work due to the material thickness being so thin. Ideally you need someone with a TIG welder, could possibly be done with a MIG with a spool gun.

Second less expensive option would be to try getting the dent out as much as possible so the crack is as small as possible width wise. Then patching with West Marine G Flex and fiber glass mat or cloth. I used this to coat some leaking rivets after I re bucked them as insurance they wouldn't leak in the future, also used it on a fiberglass cloth patch on the bow of the boat. I bought a 8 oz kit off amazon for less than $25 and still have about an ounce left in each bottle. It goes a long way. I had the regular G Flex but if I was only doing a patch I would go with the toughed G Flex it is thicker so it doesn't run.

Those are the good options. I did buy and use some of the aluminum brazing rods that are advertised on line. The video I watched compared 7 brands, I went with the Harbor Freight as it was in the top 3 of those compared and I could go to the store and get them. For what I used them on they did ok. I filled a couple drilled mounting holes in a gun box to make it waterproof, couple were 1/4 inch or less one was about 5/8. It worked for filling the holes and making it waterproof to use as a live well. Tried using them on a storage box for added strength but that didn't work as well. You have to get the aluminum so hot to melt the rods that it distorts and buckles. When I tried to get the buckle out the two pieces separated ie joint cracked. I would not use them for anything structural. The bond is a surface bond only not like being welded.

I did use flex seal on a previous boat years ago. Sprayed it over a MIG welded repaired area on the bow of the boat inside and out. Didn't leak in that area but it might not have leaked after the repair anyways. For what a can of flex seal cost I wouldn't buy it again I'd go with epoxy and fiberglass.

Do it the correct way and have it welded.

Call a welding shop. As previously stated find any small cracks, if you can put some water in it to look for leaks and mark as most shops charge a minimum fee and that will weld up a bunch for that. Our 72 lowe 1636 likely has about as much weld as it has aluminum. If you were closer to Lebanon, MO I would suggest taking it to lowe, They redid ours for a very reasonable fee, fixed any rivets cracks, beefed up the transom. They did inquire if we were able to get antique tags for it..... we have used two local weld shops with good success also. Tight Lines