Any one ever done it?? I know you can with diamond blades but for 1 cut I can't see the cost especially since I already have carbide blades. This is a 4" block. Thanks.
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Any one ever done it?? I know you can with diamond blades but for 1 cut I can't see the cost especially since I already have carbide blades. This is a 4" block. Thanks.
Score the block all the way around with a hand grinder about 1/4"deep and hit it with a hammer. It will break pretty clean. Hit it on the cut line.
Not ideal, but guess it depends on the length of the one cut and how pretty it needs to be. CMU block is pretty soft only comprised of portland cement and finely ground aggregate. The friction alone from the carbide blade will cut into it but not very efficiently. If using a small angle grinder say 4" or 4 1/2" blade I would try to score as deep as you good from both sides if possible. If any fill in the cells at all it should just be brick / block mortar. I would recommend if possible taking your time and allowing the blade to cool off or use a sprayer to mist water on the blade while cutting to keep it cool and also regulate the silica dust. This is what I do for a living concrete sawing & drilling but on a much larger scale. Our rotary hammer bits we use to set anchors and such are carbide but are tungsten carbide and have a wider variety of applications as opposed to standard carbide. If you need any further advice or assistance feel free to PM me.
There are some 4 1/2" blades at Lowes for under $20. They may not be the best but, they should good for one time use.
This is what I was thinking. Also I think I have some old carbide blades laying around some where. BTW, if you ever plan a project using the 8 X 16 X 4 concrete blocks sold at Home Depot they are not that size. They are 7½ X 15 5/8 X 3 5/8, I guess I'm lucky that I only have to cut 1 of them. If I had known that ahead of time I could have laid them out differently and avoided that.Quote:
Originally Posted by deltarat
They are made undersize to accommodate the mortar to the completed size of 8X16X4.
"gene"
OK, that makes sense. Thanks GeneQuote:
Originally Posted by PawPaw "gene"
NOW, explain why a 2x4 ain't 2x4 anymore. Our house is made from sawmill cut studs in the 60's.
That's easy. Its a conspiracy brought about by the makers of tape measures so they can sell more. :RoflQuote:
Originally Posted by Cane Pole
I live in a house that was build with 2 X 4 X 8, that measure 2" X 4" X 8'. An eight foot sheet of anything doesn't go from floor to ceiling, there is a 4 7/8" gap either top or bottom, or split the difference. Don't try to add a modern 2 X 4 in the wall to do repairs. Nothing lines up. I have to rip a 2 X 6 down to 2 X 4.
"gene"