LED trailer lights installed with continuous ground

Installed new LED trailer lights on boat trailer using new wire supplied in kit. I used 2 wires of the old wiring to run a ground from the lights to the plug, (continuous ground) instead of grounding to trailer with a screw. All wires are run inside trailer tubing and then inside the Y tubing to lights. I tied a rope to end of old wires at old lights and pulled forward, and then pulled new wires back to the lights. I soldered all my connections, shrink wrapped each solder, then shrink wrapped together the 3 wires for each light together , as well as the 2 ground wires connecting to plug ground wire

LED lights are awesome (even the ones from Harbor Freight) 30$ #62488
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...ler+lightskits

I could have cut corners but years from now I will be glad I took the time to pay attention to details

That's exactly how I did mine when I bought my boat a couple months ago. I deal with 12 volt wiring very, very often and the by at least a 10-1 margin, grounding problems are usually the culprit when lights don't work, or flicker, or burn dimly, or..... I didn't use Harbor Freight lights, but I did use the exact same technique of installing them as you did.

I own a semi trailer repair shop, and we also install dump beds and poultry litter beds on trucks. We do A LOT of light work. My guys hated me when I locked up the butt splices and got a couple small torches, solder and shrink wrap. We can't alway run a continuous ground when repairing old stuff but on any new install, we run a continuous ground. It is even more important with the LED lights.

I learned to do it that way after constantly dealing with ground issues. Seemed like all my trailer light problems were always ground related.

Thanks. Running new wire and lights on my trailer within a week.


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Originally Posted by chimneyman

Thanks. Running new wire and lights on my trailer within a week.


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I loosen the twist in wires to solder and push them together intertwining then twist wires giving good contact and tighter smaller surface to saucer Saw on YouTube. Have link if you want


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Majority of the time.. it is a ground issue. Great Job.

I've also done my lights this way for 10 years, and if there is a light out, it's the bulb or the connection to the pull vehicle. The wiring is still solid, and never had an issue with it. Worth every minute of extra time to do it right.

This is what I posted about this issue back in 8/2012 and it is still unchanged as to what I posted then.
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/mecha...ml#post2017145