Jig Fishing

I need some help determining what kind of rod i should use for jig fishing. I haven't picked out the jigs just yet. But i have 3 main rods, two medium actions rods, one a baitcasting and one a spinning. The third is a medium heavy rod that i'm finding very quickly that i have no use for. I originally bought it for catfishing the Missouri river and Platte here in Nebraska but seeing how most of that is flooded, you can hardly fish out there.

Im curious to know what kind of rods do most of you use for jig fishing through heavy cover such as weed beds and brush piles?

Chris ... you DO realize you posted these questions in the White Bass/Hybrid Striper forum ... right :confused:

If you're intention is to use "jigs" for Bass .... your Med/Hvy rod might not be a bad choice (if it's in the 6-7ft length range). But, if you're talking about using jigs for Whites/Hybrids ... you might want to tell us what size fish you're likely to encounter. That'd give us a better idea on what rod to consider suggesting. You'd definitely want a rod that could handle whatever size line you intend to use.

... cp

We have white bass, stripers and hybrids here in nebraska, just not as common as they are down in the deep south. Nowhere as big either, which is why i was concerned that maybe a med/heavy rod with a 20lb test would be overkill for a fish that would be under 10lbs. But then again the state record for a striper hybrid is 64lbs. :)

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Originally Posted by ChrisCarter

We have white bass, stripers and hybrids here in nebraska, just not as common as they are down in the deep south. Nowhere as big either, which is why i was concerned that maybe a med/heavy rod with a 20lb test would be overkill for a fish that would be under 10lbs. But then again the state record for a striper hybrid is 64lbs. :)

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Actually, Chris ... Nebraska's state record "Hybrid" (what ya'll call a "Wiper") is around 17lbs ... & the real "Striped Bass" is the near 65lbs fish.

All the same, those are huge fish by any standards. Even if you don't foresee yourself hooking into anything in that size range ... consider the fact that many Bass anglers use med/hvy outfits w/20lb test line, and they're generally catching fish "under 10lbs" Doh Thumbs Up

Also take into account the fact that your line is your only connection between you & the fish .... and it's usually your weakest link, when you consider that it's been stretched, dragged over obstacles, and has knots tied in it. I used to break 12lb line, on the hookset, when Bass fishing with T-rigged plastics .... so I moved up to 17lb test. And had I continued to have breakoffs ... I wouldn't have hesitated to go on up to 20lb test, or higher (as long as I stayed within the pound test range rating of my rod/reel).

Consider, also .... most people use 4-8lb test line for Crappie, which are most likely to be mostly under the 2lb weight range. Is that "overkill" ?? Not really, if you consider that you're likely to put quite a bit more pressure on your line, when setting the hook, than the line is rated to handle. The stretch of the line & action of your rod (&/or reel drag) are going to come into play, and soften the impact to the point where you don't break your line (when setting the hook, or fighting the fish). Whites/Hybrids/Stripers are all going to put a lot more pressure on your line, than Crappie or most Bass will ... so heavier line is more "insurance" than it is "overkill" !!

... cp :cool:

I hope I rigged this correctly.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...y64_05/026.jpg

Now, I can add plastics to it if i want to, right? Or is it suppose to be fished by its self?

The swivel/clip isn't really "necessary", as the jig isn't likely to spin or twist. But, if you're using it to help be able to change baits quickly ... it probably won't hurt anything, though it "may" cause you to hang up more often.
Just remember to check the line for rough spots/frays ... especially the first 1-2ft above the jig ... about every 5-10 casts, depending on if you're dragging the jig over wood &/or rock. Since you have to cut the bad section of line off, anyway, and re-tie ... the added "hardware" is neither here nor there, as a help.

The addition of a plastic trailer is a "choice" ... sometimes it helps, other times it's neither a help or hindrance. It can add size to your bait, scent (if the plastics are scented/salted), and help slow the fall rate (by making the bait a bit more bulky or buoyant).

The blk/blue color is a good choice, and proven fish catching combination. Blk/red, brown/orange, green/orange are also good combinations. The jig is meant to imitate a crawfish +/- .... so matching the coloration of the crawfish in your area, could be taken into consideration. Craws are not the same colors, all the time .. and there's different species to consider.

A slow drag-hop retrieve is the usual method used for these jigs ... a lot like the T-rigged plastics ... but, the bite detection can be a little different. With the "weight" being attached to the hook, the fish inhales both at the same time, unlike the T-rigged plastics ... where the weight & hook/bait are independant of each other. This can translate into more "felt" bites (thumps), than "visual" (line jump) bites ... with the exception of when the strike occurs while the jig is falling. Then you're likely to see the line just go slack, well before you know your jig has hit bottom. And/or the line starts moving off to one side or the other.

In the cases of 'slack line' & 'sideways moving line' bite detection ... I defer to how I treat these type of bites, when casting a jig for Crappie :

When I get the "slack line" bite ... I set the hook immediately, raising the rod straight back over my head/shoulder. In the case of the "sideways movement" bite ... I continue to reel until I can feel the least bit of tension/weight in the rod tip, then set the hook by jerking the rod in the opposite direction of the movement of the line. By using these hook set methods ... I'm more likely to have more direct contact with the fish, since I'm not just jerking the slack line thru the water. The "slack line" bite can be a little tricky ... but, just gauge how much slack is put into the line, when this type of bite occurs, and if necessary (lots of slack) you may want to reel in some line while dropping your rod tip, until you see the line starting to straighten out .. then set the hook. This will shorten the distance between the rod & the fish, allowing for a more solid hookup. I set the hook "immediately" on Crappie, when they do this ... as they rarely cause much slack to occur. But, I have had occasions where Bass have grabbed my bait (on the fall) and continued swimming towards me ... probably moving off to deeper water, having procured the meal they were looking for. Crappie, on the other hand, will usually turn & head back to the cover/area they were originally stationed.

... cp :cool: