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I have an 16' bomber with a 1972 evinrude triump 60hp outbord.
The tilt and trim has gone out. THe electric motor stopped running. Who can I get to fix it? I'm in leflore county. Never had to put a boat in a shop before.
I need to get a competent repair before spring gets here.
Thanks
Fin
Are you sure it's not just the relays ?? Will it move in either direction ?? Does it even make a sound when you push the button(s) ??
The relay clicks. I've only found 1 relay. I think the brushes are worn. Sometimes it work if you bump it. But I can't even get it to work at all. There is a short somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrappiePappy
Fin, if you had a short it would blow a fuse and relay wouldn’t click and motor wouldn’t try to run. If it tries to run when you bump it tells me you either have a lot of carbon build up around brushes keeping it from making good contact or the brushes are worn out. Not being a smart elic here but how much mechanical knowledge do you have about fixing these kinds of things? Also if you would give me serial number or model number I’ll do some research tomorrow on parts for you.
I'll check on the model number tomorrow.
I'm a retired farm mechanic. I can fix just about anything if I know what's wrong with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cray
Except electric motors:dono.The model is Evinrude triumph 65373 65hp . I cant find a fuse. There is only 1 solenoid and 1-3 way switch up neutral and down
I have a multimeter But I need someone's help to test the electric motor. "cant be two places at once" It may be a few days till I can do more testing due to the weather.
Ok, doing some research on that motor. It does not show it having trim and tilt from factory. Now lot of the omc motors were built so much alike some of those mounting parts will interchange. So I’m going to take a wild guess and say someone at some point swapped out the mounting bracket with a latter model motor.. so first thing is to go to motor, find trim motor wiring harness and trace it up to motor. There should be a plug in harness between solienoid and motor. You could take ohm meter and check in that harness for a short or ground. There should be 3 wires ground wire and a up wire and down wire. You could rig hopefully a set of jumper wires with a ground and power and attach to up wire then down wire to see if motor works. You can also check solenoid by taking ohm meter to ground wire from solenoid and up wire then down wire to see if your getting power out of the solenoid. Which I would check first. If not there then start tracing wiring back to the switch self. When you get ready to start working on it I’ll pm you my number and if you have any trouble I’ll be glad to help any way I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by FIN
That sure sounds like burn't contacts in the solenoid. Jump the solenoid to verify.
The OP is describing the old style circuit that omc used for several years. It uses a single solenoid on the up circuit that is located in a plastic box mounted in the bilge area. (The solenoid resembles an old ford firewall mounted starting solenoid.) It has no slave circuit for "down" operation. I would trace the wires from the motor back to the plastic box. From there, you will have a positive and negative cable going over to a battery. Check battery voltage. You should also find an inline fuse somewhere on the positive cable. Make sure cable connections are good. You can apply positive side power to the up circuit at the solenoid with a jumper to test the motor. Based upon the age of the system, I would expect the motor brushes to be worn out. But corrosion of the wiring system may be the culprit. (You "might" get it to operate by tapping the top of the motor with a metal object while applying power if the brushes are stuck. But tap only the top and don't get to aggressive with it.)
Sounds like selenoid to me. Had the same thing happen. Replaced mine with a $10 universal one from Rural King....no issues since.
If the motor tries to run when you beat on it, that's textbook brush failure. If you have a multimeter, set it to DC volts, and place each lead on the big solenoid posts, and push the trim button. If the meter reads more than a volt, then the relay is bad. The easier test is just to jumper the posts with a screwdriver.Quote:
Originally Posted by FIN
You may be able to get brushes, but chances are the armature and bushings in the motor are worn as well. If there are any starter/alternator repair shops left in your area, bringing it there is the best option, they specialize in repairing electric motors.
You can likely buy a new motor assembly as well, check DB electrical, they had the best price for the Trim motor on my 60 Merc.
Thanks all for the support. The solenoid is bad. Also found water in the motor. I think I can fix it now.
You nailed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sliderman
The local starter and alternator guy fixed it for $32