Pouring help

Ok fellas I just getting started into pouring and have ran into a few snags. I have 2 older molds that will make 4 - 1/8 and 4 - 1/4 oz barbed head. When I pour them, the mold are closed. When I open up the mold the jig look great but 2/8 will only have a barb. I have used the rubber mallet and tapped on the mold with the hooks in place and shut. My lead I pour wide open and get a nice round done head coming out cavity. The molds say a number 4 hook and I am using a 1/0 hook which seams to fit the mold. Any suggestions.

Are they the old blue handle do it's?? while the hook may fit in the mold it may slow the small amount of lead needed to make the barb. I've done 2 hook sizes bigger but never 3. Can you tell us what model it is or post a picture.

Couple of my molds from Do-It and Jacob's are picky about how they take lead. When barbs don't want to form consistently I will up the heat on my Lee to 7 and also adjust the angle I hold the mold to the spout on the Lee. Strange how just a little adjustment will affect how a mold pours, especially now that outside temps have risen. Molds like Jacob's will tolerate more production than the Do-It molds because of materials used in the mold. Folks in the Northern states may not see it, but down here outside temps are pretty dang high already. Just something to look at. Also, the blue handle molds Fatman was asking about are different than the black handle Do-It molds too.

I pour many 1/8 and 1/4 using do-it molds with many different size hooks up to #1 Red sickle or #1 Litewirehook. I use 20 lb pot and adjust the flow so the holes fill up pretty quick. With hot lead, very seldom does a barb not form correctly. The more you pour and the hotter the mold gets, the better they pour.....at least for me. When I pour, I try to pour at least 1000 at a time no matter what size I'm pouring. Good luck and keep pouring.....

Ok they are the blue handles guys here are some pix of me and my girl pouringAttachment 164695Attachment 164696Attachment 164697Attachment 164698

Thanks for the help.

I have no idea on what number temp to pour at or what kinda pot it is. It does clog up and has rust in it. It was given to me to use.

Buddy I'm glad you're enjoying the pouring BUT!!! SAFETY!!!! Man just seeing her pouring the way she is scares me - I see burn city happening and you don't want that!!!!! I took a bad burn in the eye when I was in junior high school and it took over 30 years to heal, don't let that happen to her or you.

No Eye Protection
No long sleeves
No Gloves
Hopefully she has long pants and shoes - not sandles

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Originally Posted by fatman

buddy i'm glad you're enjoying the pouring but!!! Safety!!!! Man just seeing her pouring the way she is scares me - i see burn city happening and you don't want that!!!!! I took a bad burn in the eye when i was in junior high school and it took over 30 years to heal, don't let that happen to her or you.

No eye protection
no long sleeves
no gloves
hopefully she has long pants and shoes - not sandles

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x2 x2

Never thought of that thanks for heads up

Safety Glasses or better yet a face shield are more than recommended

Pouring with oversize hooks is a challenge, could be different wire diameter but most likely cause is the hook will not center in the cavity. Both of my Lee pots I cast at 6-7 heat setting which may be a bit hotter than necessary but I cast a 2 ounce and 3 ounce jig along with whatever I am casting. Makes for a lot of recharging. The big jigs are for some buddies in FL and TX and its takes a long time to accumulate 100 jigs and casting 100 at a time of either is boring! Single cavity Molds but those big hooks are fun to work with and easy.

Okay I re-read your first post and from your description I believe you have the RHB-8-48 (4 - 1/4th and 4 - 1/8th). You mentioned hitting the mold with a rubber mallet - did you change the hooks from aberdeen to heavy wire?? If so that could also be the reason you're having with the barbs.

These molds a designed to outgas through the hook slot. Using bigger hooks shuts the opening down. If you can't get it to poor after it gets hot and you try different holding/filling angles look at your venting. You may have to open up something somewhere. Kids are a lot more sensitive to lead issues and the fumes off these lead pots are very dangerous. Its cool seeing kids make jigs and lures but there are a lot of risks involved. Please be careful Lit'l Bit !! You are too precious to get hurt !

i am wondering if the mold is hot enough when poured? i hit my forms with a map gas torch just to pre-warm them. they are aluminum which expels heat out ward from it self and cool very quickly compared to that of steel. i learned this in welding class if you have to much heat on a weld back it with aluminum. see my point this is why they have that pre warm slots on the smaller jig molds to pre-warm the form for like 1/64 of a ounce and smaller. by the way your daughter does not need to be exposed to the lead like every one else says. she does not need to develop problems later on i got sensitized to wood working dust and cant go in the basement to wood work any more if that tell you some thing so keep her safe!

Good info guys thanks. What about pouring the other type of materials than lead?

The pot is a 10lb lee bottom pour and all you'll need for some time. Fatman can give you maintenance tips to keep it working at its best. I'm yet another vote for the safety issues already stated, and will add another that I use. Buy an old cookie sheet at a yard sale or someplace like that and sit the pot in it. If hot lead gets out of hand it will not get into your lap, acting like a dam. Glad to see the girl doing this, does she tie yet? Be a good time to start.

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arkansasbowhunter
I have no idea on what number temp to pour at

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From your picture you have a Lee Production Pot IV. The back piece is either square or oblong mine are newer so they're oblong. On top is a knob with numbers around it - the #"s are for 100's of degrees. http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...f/100_1075.jpg If this knob is missing, turn the peg all the way in one direction with pliers - and the split in the rod which holds the knob should be at the highest or lowest number.

Full protection is an absolute must for cleaning of your lead pot!!!!!!!!!! T

You didn't say anything about fluxing your lead!!! If you don't flux - DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!! Until a thread about it on TackleUnderground, http://www.tackleunderground.com/com...ead-melt-flux/ I had never fluxed my lead, and I'm a convert!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It helps keep the lead clean and makes it pour so much better. I personally use old pieces of my wifes Yankee candles and they're scented

The first time you flux will be a surprise - it does flame up, so make sure there is nothing above the pot.

Here's what I do for cleaning after EVERY USE!!! You'll need a piece of spinner making wire or an old jig with the barb cut off and bent in an L shape.

When all the lead is out of the pot WEARING GLOVES tilt it forward to get any remaining lead to flow out the hole.

Next you'll have to loosen one of the screws that holds the bar lifter, don't take it all the way out just loose enough so that you can use a pair of vise grips to get hold of the pour bar and pull it out set in on a safe surface to cool down

Turn the pot down to about 200 degrees and using the bent jig wire (old bass jig with the barb cut off and shaped into an L) up into the hole, you may have to use needle nose pliers to do this - from the bottom and hold it there.

Use an old flat head screwdriver to scrape down the inside walls of the pot, you don't have to do it hard it should come off

Unplug the pot and using the base turn it upside down and shake everything out of the pot. Put it back on the base and take the spinner wire and push it through the hole from inside the pot out the pour tip and leave it there while you wait for the pot to cool off.

You can use the cool down time to break the sprues off your jigs.

Once everything is cooled off scrape the inside walls of the pot again and shake it out, then use a big piece of steel wool or a wire brush to wipe the inside of the pot till totally clean. I even use a fine long handled flat head screwdriver to help clean the pour spout inside the pot, tip it over again and shake it out again.

Last step is hold the pouring bar in your vise grips and use an old pocket knife and scrape the rod off on all sides - you'll be surprised how much stuff you can get off the bar. When you're done use steel wool on the pouring bar then wipe it off with paper towel. Put the pouring bar back into the melter and make sure the handle seats back in the pour bar slot and then tighten the screw back down and your done.

It might seem like it takes a long time but it doesn't once you get used to it. This cleaning process has worked well for me and my two original pots lasted 24 and 27 years, plus when you go to pour again everything is clean and ready to go.

It would have been longer but I messed up when we moved and left a box outside in the garage and with it having a split top water got inside and ruined them. Got them replaced through the Lee 1/2 price replacement program so I use one of them and the other is still in the box.

The hardest thing we have found on pouring is finding good clean lead!! With all the Regs and shutting down the lead mines!!Good Quality clean lead is going to be a problem!!! Grizzly Jig (louie mansfield) has the best deal (price) and good clean lead!!! Pleas be careful and wear your safety equipment!!!!

Looked in the catalouge and I must be missing it. Can you tell me what page it's on??

Thanks so much for taking time to share your wealth of information.

How many times do you flux your lead. I put a piece of candle in the little pot and it flamed, smoked and the. When all settled down I took a small snoop and scraped the stuff off he top. The lead never got silver as every time I would scrape it, the lead would be shiny for a sec then turn blue or purple in color.

I highly recommend leather boots and NO synthetic clothing (like nylon). Nylon will melt instantly when the lead contacts it. You will get a burn thru a pair of jeans but keeping molten lead off bare skin will save you a degree or two with the burn. I received a 2nd degree burn in a small area (quarter sized) last year as a result of a splash. I wasn't properly dressed for a quick 50 head pour. I won't make that mistake again. I don't pour with gloves, BUT I use welding gloves to add new lead and to flux the pot. I also use gloves around the pot until the lead reaches pouring temperature. Safety glasses are an absolute must.

If you received the pot used, the channel that carries lead to the spout may be clogged with rust and impurities. emptying the pot and cleaning it will help the flow.

Thanks guys my lee pot croaked. It was given to me so I am gonna have to get another one.

Use this info and go through LEE precision it's their 1/2 price replacement program. I called them first then shipped it out

LEE reloading products are guaranteed not to wear out or break from normal use for two full years or they will be repaired or replaced at no charge if returned to the factory. Any LEE product of current manufacture, regardless of age or condition, will be reconditioned to new, including a new guarantee, if returned to the factory with payment equal to half the current retail price. http://leeprecision.com/satisfaction-guaranteed.html

Roughly $40 for a new pot, and whether re-furbished or replaced you get a new 2 year guarantee.

LEE Precision
4275 County Road U
Hartford, WI 53027
Phone: 262-673-3075

Hey thanks fatman

Glad to help - hope you get back up and running soon

if your pot croaked, it is most likely the thermostat or heating element with a 75% chance of it being the heating element. If you are mechanically inclined, it isn't that hard to get apart to check. It can be challenge to get the new element in the casing. You can purchase a new heating element for around $18~20 shipped from precision. I only mention this because after shipping you will probably spend $80 for the refurbished.

If you need more information about how to check the thermostat or heating element, please PM me.

I checked the price on a new one and saw they were 59.99 for the size I have. May be worth it to replace idk. May have to look at the heating element thingy

JW:
1. get a face shield on that girl
2. Get long sleeve cotton shirt on her
3. Get an apron on over that
4. Get some gloves on her.. leather.

may i also mention that lead fumes sink, and like to hang out from ground level up to about 4 feet!

Ok, i'm off my soap box! LOL

Now, your pouring several sizes too big of a hook for the mold, so it may never be 100% what you want. Hard to tow a 5th wheel with a Volkswagen. Not sayin it can't be done... just may not work out the way you want!

Turn the heat up, and hold the mold on about a 15 degree angle when you pour. the lead should be hot enough that it fills the holes instantly and runs down the top of the mold. Thats a nice pretty neat lead fill your showing there, but a sloppy looking fill is usually more effective at filling the cavity on those little hand molds. By holding at 15 degrees, when all cavities are full, they will spill out and they will all be connected and easier to remove from the mold.

Also, where you getting your lead? that nice shiny lead... looks like re-furbed battery lead... or wheel weights, something with alot of antimony added to it. the softer the lead, the better it will pour in a hand mold.

Oh, i think someone else mentioned this, but make sure your mold is Hot. Pour it and dump it 4 or 5 times before you add hooks.

mitch

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Originally Posted by arkansasbowhunter

I checked the price on a new one and saw they were 59.99 for the size I have. May be worth it to replace idk. May have to look at the heating element thingy

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i suggest repairing it first but if unable to keep it till you can sell it or find some one who can. any ways for the price of this pot and a ladle your better off with this pot. i got the bigger pot that holds 20 pounds of lead for making sinker i went from herters lift the handle and port type pot to one of the ladle it off type pots cause i got sick of getting burned every time it got clogged which is very often sorry to say it... most of all if the pot is rusted or you use dirt lead is the biggest problems of the clogging . any way this pot is about $35 ladle is about $6 new lead from tire and wheel weight and factory scrap yards etc price less pouring does not stop,. see link for model of lee pot i am referring too. btw janns net craft has the same pot if your close to janns shipping is cheaper juts a thought... zone 1 threw zone 7 shipping lol's


http://www.barlowstackle.com/Lee-4-L...l-P349C62.aspx

Ok thanks for tips. Idk on the lead as is was given to me also with the pot. I did flux it twice though.

Just another thought on the barbs that don't pour right............................use them for tied jigs..............just saying