How to replace the starter in a 2001 Mercury 40HP ELPTO?

When it rains it pours!

As my Sea Nymph has other issues (see that newly posted thread), I also experienced a major issue in my newly revamped 1980’s Lowe Olympic 1652 JON boat that I use for hunting and over the last four months made improvements that makes if have more utility AND safer for me, so I can safely fish out of it!!!

However, none of the changes should have caused this issue in the 2001 Mercury outboard motor, a Mercury model 1041412YD 40 HP ELPTO, as IT WOULDNT START last weekend!

Now at first I thought it might be the starting battery as it’s more than six years old but it’s not.

When I turn the ignition key, all I get is a very small click from the motor area. It started last Saturday but we got it started the first time by pushing up on the starting motor gear shaft with the screwdriver while trying to start it. Then back to just a click. Finally had to use the pull rope…we finally made it back to the ramp.

I went over to work on it today and tried a new battery to no effect. Then I tried running a jumper cable to the output end of the solenoid to no effect.
Then I tried to run the jumper cables directly to the starter and…

I mucked up BIG TIME and missed the positive connection and hit a different bolt that was actually a ground and the SPARKS flew.

Just hope I didn’t cause additional damages..

Then I decided it most likely was a starter issue and proceeded to try and unbolt it to try simply running the jumper cable ends to it and I got two of three bolts off, as the third is underneath at the bottom of the lower lip of the motor case, making it very difficult to get at.

IT looks like I will need a rather short ratchet extension that bends or is jointed to get at that bolt…but I did not have one so I quit.

HOWEVER, I am open to suggestions, counsel, etc., as to how to get the starter off, or, am I barking up the wrong tree? AND, whether or not there are additional repairs Imcan make that I am missing?

I have attached a photo of the area in question.

Thank you in advance for your assistance.

From the sound of it a swivel may be the best way to get that last bolt out

Thank you. That’s what I was thinking but only had basic tools there with me. My biggest concern was when I shorted out on the ground terminal right necktie to the starter. The YouTube videos have a 50HP 2001 motor replacement BUT IT HAS PLENTY of space. Mine has a notch there but still not enough space to put an extension on my ratchet wrench due to angle….

JMO, but I would totally troubleshoot everything upstream of the starter first. If you are getting a clicking noise that's likely the solenoid meaning the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and kill switch are all ok. Typically the click means the solenoid is fine too but you really need to test the continuity across it to see if its opening correctly when it receives the 12v starting signal. Once that checks out you can move to the battery cables. To verify the +/- connections I always use a multimeter and test continuity between the neg battery cable terminal and the starter posts. Do the same thing with the positive side, but you will have to hit the starter while doing it if reading the starter positive vs the solenoid. I'd also check the ground by checking continuity between the neg battery terminal and a ground location not on the starter, like where the coils or cdi ground to the block. I would check all of that prior to removing the starter just in case. You can do those checks in about 5 min.

Just because a solenoid clicks does not mean its good. Its common for contacts inside it to burn over time and not make good contact.

Sorry, I should have mentioned I used a voltmeter to ensure I was getting 12 volts where I should. I checked both batteries as the one I brought over was fully charged. The other one in the boat was probably low last weekend as I hadn't charged it since the weekend prior.

When I went by Wednesday night to check and bring another extension cord - I have three batteries in the boat, one up front that has a NORCO on board charger and ONLY used for the trolling motor. In the back, under the seat there are two batteries AND on a two-bank charger. One deep-cycle for all the lighting, fishfinders, 12V outlets, etc. Plus I have a built in panel that shows the voltage which was above 12V on this battery. Finally I have the Starting Battery which is just for starting BUT I did run cables from. It to an outlet for a rear trolling motor when I use one hunting.

There are also circuit breakers for the heavy duty items and a fuse block for ALL the rest. Again, the Mercury is attached to the Starting battery, which has the outlet (unused) attached AND I just remembered a wire set that will power an electric anchor winch when installed. The ends are taped.

Battery terminals are clean and I used that red spray stuff on them - no discernable arcing when used.

I used the voltmeter on both sides of solenoid when using the keyed ignition switch.

I also focused on the starter before performing these checks as it sometimes takes a lot to start motor with a lot of cranking. AND, sometimes when you turn the ignition switch, the starter simply doesn't do anything but sound like it's about to but doesn't (hard to decide sound, action, etc.) stalls.

That sums up more background but probably leaving something out as I'm not that mechanically inclined and nowadays depend on the assistance, or as in this case on Sunday, I had a friend on speakerphone providing assistance.

And, I do know what you mean about working backwards. When I was in college some 45 years ago, my 1975 Chevy Van starter quit. Bought a new one, installed and...it still wouldn't start. It wasn't the issue, it was a dead battery.. .LOL

I am probably going to replace both the solenoid and starter to be safe BUT with aftermarket parts as the Mercury ones are...shall we say a tad more.

How much is the oem solenoid? The good thing about a solenoid is they all work the same. You may be able to get a generic one that's still good quality and as long as you can mount it near where the old one was you are good. Just make sure it can handle the amps/watts your starter is rated at.

I'm not too up to speed on starter rebuild costs, but I bet you could get it rebuilt for a lot cheaper too.

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Originally Posted by scout-j-m

How much is the oem solenoid? The good thing about a solenoid is they all work the same. You may be able to get a generic one that's still good quality and as long as you can mount it near where the old one was you are good. Just make sure it can handle the amps/watts your starter is rated at.

I'm not too up to speed on starter rebuild costs, but I bet you could get it rebuilt for a lot cheaper too.

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Provided you can find a place that rebuilds them these days.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DockShootinJack

Provided you can find a place that rebuilds them these days.

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Good point. Are alternator repair shops that do starters too a thing of the past? I'm not in touch with that industry lol.