Help with boat wiring

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05-14-2007, 07:30 AM
fishin3

Help with boat wiring

Ok guys I got a friend that is needing my help to rewire his boat. Do you have any good sites that I might go to to find help or diagrams on this. He is wanting to run wires from his trolling motor back to the battery as well as his depth finders and such. The boat is running a 12/24 system for everything. I mean the trolling motor, depth finders, consul, and the big motor are running off of just 2 batteries hook in some form of parrallel type of arrangement. Any help or suggestion on where to find some more help on this is helpfull. Thanks.
05-14-2007, 08:27 AM
Barnacle Bill

See if this helps. http://www.screamandfly.com/home/hul...4/wiring_2.htm
05-14-2007, 02:23 PM
CrappiePappy

Hey, my friend ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishin3

Ok guys I got a friend that is needing my help to rewire his boat. Do you have any good sites that I might go to to find help or diagrams on this. He is wanting to run wires from his trolling motor back to the battery as well as his depth finders and such. The boat is running a 12/24 system for everything. I mean the trolling motor, depth finders, consul, and the big motor are running off of just 2 batteries hook in some form of parrallel type of arrangement. Any help or suggestion on where to find some more help on this is helpfull. Thanks.

I'm sure you already know this, but .... only the trolling motor should have any chance of getting 24V !! The main motor, depth finder, gauges and lights should only get 12V ... anything higher will damage them.
24V setups should be 3 battery setups ... not 2 battery. Starter battery should run everything except the trolling motor .... and trolling motor batteries & wires should be run straight to the trolling motor, with a inline fuse or breaker, and should be shielded from the other wires as much as possible. I believe that's correct ... but, check me on it ;)

..... cp :cool:
05-14-2007, 07:23 PM
Speck

CP is correct. Never run your trolling motor on the same battery as your electronics.
05-14-2007, 07:34 PM
willsjwills

wire gages i would be careful of. 24 volt should be wired to trolling motor with at least 8 gage wire. 6 gage would be better to prevent voltage drop. better for motor, also. from battery to console fuse panel run at least 10 gage wire. for lights , pumps, etc., 14 gage would do the job. make sure every service is fused. 40 amp breakers on trolling motor, at least.

the manufacturer of the boat may have a replacement harness for the model you are working on. good luck.

NOTE; automotive wire does not have the type of sheath outside that withstands the wet environment boat wiring is exposed to. also the strands in the wire are different sizes. I would not use automotive wire if I had a source of marine grade wiring. :) :)
05-15-2007, 06:53 AM
Crappie Reaper

I use old outdoor extension cords for my wiring needs. As for the trolling motor, stop in at a electrical supply company and have them cut the length you need out of some heavy gauge outdoor wire.
05-15-2007, 08:56 AM
Cane Pole

Hi Dak,

USCG have wiring standards that the manufacturers follow. You can google up boat wiring codes. I would call the boat manufacturer and ask for the boat wiring. These wiring codes tell you the application colors and what size to use over a given distance. If I were going to the trouble of re-wiring, I would replace all switches and fuse panels. Experience speaking here. New wires want fix bad switches. ha ha

I would also replace any/all cartridge type fuse holders/panels with blade type fuses and panels. May be a little price initially, but is probably cheaper than a hair transplant.
05-15-2007, 03:27 PM
willsjwills

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Hi Dak,

USCG have wiring standards that the manufacturers follow. You can google up boat wiring codes. I would call the boat manufacturer and ask for the boat wiring. These wiring codes tell you the application colors and what size to use over a given distance. If I were going to the trouble of re-wiring, I would replace all switches and fuse panels. Experience speaking here. New wires want fix bad switches. ha ha

I would also replace any/all cartridge type fuse holders/panels with blade type fuses and panels. May be a little price initially, but is probably cheaper than a hair transplant.

good advice CP. although the coast guard has wiring regulations, at Triton we have to go by NMMA and ABYC standards, which in most cases are more stringent than CG regs. you're right on about the panels and fuse holders. old switches can give you a case of ulcers.:) :)
05-15-2007, 06:25 PM
Cane Pole

Quote:

Originally Posted by willsjwills

good advice CP. although the coast guard has wiring regulations, at Triton we have to go by NMMA and ABYC standards, which in most cases are more stringent than CG regs. you're right on about the panels and fuse holders. old switches can give you a case of ulcers.:) :)

Didn't know you worked for Triton Wills. More likely I prob forgot. I guess NMMA replaced the old BIA. I can't keep up with this stuff. Too many memory core dumps.

Dak,

Wills right here. Use marine grade wire. You can get it a West Marine. That is where I get mine.
05-18-2007, 08:43 AM
fishin3

Thanks guys.

CP, yea I know that about the 3 battery. I have been telling him since he got the boat that it was not set up right on the batteries.

Once again thanks for all the advice. Tom since you have done this before you want to come show us how HAHA. I like the blade idea if he will go for it.