Thread: Hmmmm.... What lures should I use under a float in late March, early April

Originally Posted by Ketchn

Seen some top water popping the other day myself, interesting

I’ve caught bluegills on top during winter on warm days using a small Rapala out of ponds .

I’ve always been a big fly rod bluegill catching type of fella. With all these shoulder surgeries all lined up for the past year , I’ve been tinkering with an ultra light to catch some bream. I’m afraid my ultralight rod isn’t as sensitive as it needs to be because I catch some bream without feeling the strike while using small jigs. I thinking about shellcracker as they tend to be deeper than bluegills. Just may be my rod/line setup. I’ve got some testing to do.

Suggestion:
A light action rod is plenty sensitive enough for crankbaits abd spinners when retrieved steadily but not for small soft plastics on light jigs under 1/16 oz. unless the following is observed.

The key for detecting strikes for light lures is the forefinger which must be touching the line during the retrieve. A 1/32 oz jig + plastic weight is enough weight for not only casting and working that lure at long distance, but feeling when lure weight-resistance is slack.

The other requirement for that to occur is the use of very small-diameter, no-stretch line such as 6 lb test braid. Braid sinks when wet and has the least bowing when using light lures. Bowing creates too much slack which makes it double hard for the finger to detect the lightest of strikes on paused retrieves.

Braid allows the lightest of hook sets using small hooks (#6, #8) without the fish yanking the lure free. Over-the-shoulder hook sets are fine for 3/8 oz bass jigs & trailers, but not for light set-ups. Even the smallest fish set the hook for you with slight rod tip elevation keeping it hooked.

Works for me.

A Berkley Nymph on 1/32 jighead on a loop knot is pretty deadly

I forgot to mention and most important when using light finesse lures: as you turn the reel handle, any resistance is transmitted up the line to it, even from the slightest hit. It will seem like resistance to turning the handle, which is when the rod tip is raised slightly for confirmation of the strike and a possible hookset from a panicked fish.

I discovered the ABC's of strike detection yesterday when catching a few small panfish, having taken the sequence for granted subconsciously.

Originally Posted by Happyfisherman

A Berkley Nymph on 1/32 jighead on a loop knot is pretty deadly

I have a mold for the Berkley Nymph and it has become one my favorite bluegill baits. I have found that crappie are crazy about them also.

Grain and happy, would one of you please post a pic of the Berkeley nymph. I haven’t a clue.

RJR, one of the combos I keep in the boat is currently spooled with 4lb mono for the abrasive places I sometimes go. But I have run braid on it and I’ve noticed the difference in the sensitivity and how the hits feel. Raid transfers everything to the hand in even this cheap combo I’m talking about. It’s a Shakespeare micro series in 5’6” and a Shimano Sienna reel and it’s nothing special at about $50 for the rig. With braid on it I can feel the tiny strikes very well. My point, it’s nice to have better gear but we have what we have for the moment. The better line makes things a lot easier. I have to run a leader for retying and abrasion resistance but for me there’s no turning back. Hope the shoulder heals well and this UL experiment turns out well also.

Shakespeare micro series in 5’6” - have the same rod and use spinning and spincast reels with it - both with braid.
Casting distance using 1/32 oz jig + plastic weight, a good 50'. Sensitivity even at the distance is good using forefinger touching line and reel handle to feel any slight bumps or changes in lure speed.