Thread: Best spider rig rod for a newbie

IMO, setting up or breaking down a three piece rod is not that bad. When I break them down I put a rubber band around each end to help minimize tangles in the rod locker. You can always add a rod rack later if you see a need. If you're familiar with breaking down a fly rod, you shouldn't have a problem.

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what i do with fly rods if im going to be fishing again in the next little while is i dont take it all down. I reel the line up to the end of the rod, then break it down and kinda fold it up in an accordion if that makes sense. handle down, then the middle folds down to the handle, then the tip folds up to the bottom section of the middle. then put the whole kaboodle in its case, and I dont have to restring it when I get back out later in the day or whatever. Purists might tell you thats hard on the leader and tippet, I dont guess I fish well enough to notice. I figured a guy could do the same thing and use a rod sock to keep it together. My boat is a 22' deck boat that has a decent ski/rod locker in the floor but its kinda full usually as it is, adding another 4 or 8 rods will probably be a challenge. The boat has a lip outside of the fence that is about 4" wide that seems like it would work well for putting a horizontal rack on, then the rods could ride outside the fence and be completely out of the way. Thats probably going to be later on down the road depending on how everything else shakes out. The only thing I can think of that might suck with a rack like that would be an easy way of taking it off when we got home to put the cover on. I'm sure theres something with a quick release or whatever.

I guess I'm a bit surprised that some (or most) folks appear to use their trolling rods for both rigging, cranking and pushing. Sure, it cuts down on the inventory and maybe I'm just a stickler for rod = application? We do run planers (regular and mini) for crappie therefore, prefer a stiffer rod for that application. If running straight off the back from our rack, we'll use a shorter Cabelas DepthMaster in the medium light version........ there's enough sensitivity to where the hooks won't rip out however, enough to handle those NTS. We have pretty good luck with the BnM PSTR's in a 12' for pushing as well.

As for rigging, we strictly use BnM PSTR's in a 12' or 16', again, depending on conditions....... I could go into a dissertation about what we use up here in Wisconsin for crappie/walleye but not sure that's overly helpful.

Reading this, I am reminded that it's my fault we have so many rods.....

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I have seen a lot of newcomers to spider rigging start out with rods to long and get discouraged. It takes a little while to get the hang of it. Rod selection is very important. A soft tip with enough backbone can help a lot. The soft tip comes in real handy when the bites are light but you need enough backbone for a good hookset. I still run 12 footers most of the time and switch to 14 ft in shallower water conditions. I catch as many or more on the 12 ft as I do the 14's. I think you will enjoy it a lot more starting with a shorter pole and going up to a longer one after you get the hang of it. last thing, don't try to start with to many poles. It can really get frustrating. It is a lot of fun once you get it down.

I use 12 footers without any issues, fish mostly Stockton amd Pomme I fish 15-20 feet deep at Stockton and the shorter poles work great when going deep, I will eventually maybe probably someday if the wind is right get some 14ft ones. Good Luck!

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I push 16' Lews sweet sixteens and I'm a first timer. Depends if you're fishing clear water or stained. If you're gonna be fishing clear longer the better IMO. If you're fishing deep I don't think length matters as much.


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