Thread: Question for you smart people

Never stop the boat if you hang one up or you'll end up with a tangle that will take more than an hour to undo. I just put the pole straight in line and hope to straighten the hook before the line pops. As far as keeping the fish hooked just keep steady tension while reeling one in and once it gets on top speed up enough that it can't go back under the surface. If your losing fish you may want to slow down a bit and see if you start getting the hook set a little deeper in their mouth. Some days they just aren't as aggressive and will barely hook themselves.

That's one of the cons of "Pulling" cranks .... so much line out = more chance for fish to pull off, and those 40 acre turns.

That's why I prefer to "Push" cranks (& jigs) ... shorter lines out = quicker landing of fish & shorter turns.

When Pulling cranks ... you can (sometimes) turn around and get on the other side of the hangup and pull the crank free, or you can use one of those "lure retriever" devices to knock it free, but that requires reeling in all the other rods to avoid them getting hung up in the process. Otherwise ... yeah, you're just gonna have to sacrifice that crank (as is the usual case when Pushing) unless your line is strong enough to pull the crank free (or bend the hook open).

SOME OF THE REASONS I DON'T LONG LINE CRANKS ARE. 1. TAKE THE WHOLE LAKE TO TURN 2. LOSE A LOT OF FISH JUST LIKE WHAT YOU SAID (JUST POP OFF). 3. A BIG TRASH FISH CAUSES A TANGLED UP MESS A LOT OF THE TIME.. START PUSHING 4 POLES WITH HEAVY WEIGHTS AND 4 POLES OUT THE SIDE WITH HEAVY WEIGHTS. THEN YOU CAN TURN ON A DIME, YOU WILL LOSE 20 X LESS FISH. WILL CUT DOWN ON THE TANGLES WITH TRASH FISH BUT UNFORTUNATELY, YOU WILL STILL HAVE SOME TANGLES FROM THEM...

Run heavy power pro main line with small swivel on end. Above the swivel put a bead and 1 oz egg weight. Then go with 3 feet of 10 pound fluorocarbon line to snap swivel to the bandit. This let you get bait down with half the line out and more quickly. Cuts 40 acres to one 1 acre,

My $.02. I troll extensively for multiple species of fish. If I hook a good fish I immediately kick motor in neutral and start bringing it in. I will bump back into forward gear as needed to keep any other lines trailing behind the boat and separated. I will get an occasional tangle but not usually too bad. I also land a very high percentage of the fish I hook. Similarly If I hang a crank I do have my drag set to pull line as opposed (hopefully to breaking). Again quickly into neutral and try to whip/bounce it off the snag. If unsuccessful I will retrieve any lines and return to attempt to retrieve my lure. If a cheap lure I won't worry about it much but will give my Rapala's a little extra effort. This is just the way it works for me. Not for everyone.

My guess, water temps are still a little cool for crappie to chase a crankbait down and slam it. You can try slowing down a bit to 1.3 to 1.5 and see if that helps. Once they get in the mood you will lose a few fish, but most will get atleast the rear treble good. Some will swallow them and get both!

Your correct on getting them to the surface quickly and skiing them in. I have to explain to first time crankbaiters that we aren't trying to play the fish, we are welcoming them into the boat as quickly as possible.

Getting hung happens, I use 40# braid and 80% of the time can tighten the drag and bend the hook. If not I let line out roll other poles up quickly while maintaining a straight line and go back for it or them if more than one. Easy by myself with 4 poles and with an experienced hand in the boat not bad with 8 rods out. Also, if you have 4 feet of separation on each pole you shouldn't need 40 acres and a mule to turn. Just watch what your doing and adjust as need be. I make long sweeping turns in fairly tight coves all the time. Just watch your rods cause it often triggers a bite. It will get easier as you do it and it's trial and error basically.

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If it's windy you have to get in the motion to reel on the down part of the wave and wait on the hill of it. You will figure it out. And keep the net handy if you barely have them hooked and they make it to the boat.

I always swap out the hooks on Bandits, Arkies, etc.. Those little red hooks are easier to straighten out if you get hung but swapping to an extra short shank #4 seem to keep them pinned better. Also, switching to EWG hooks seem to snag a little less than the typical round bends that come from the factory. I run braid to a swivel then make up 3 ft flouro leaders that end in snap swivel that connects you to your crank. I keep 20-30 of them pretied and wrapped to a pool noodle so it's an easier deal if you break off.