My brother had a 140 on a 24 ft shrimp boat. Great pulling motor and super quiet. Good on gas. I have a 200 SHO on a 20 ft Xpress. Very strong, quiet and fast. Not as good on gas as I hoped.
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My brother had a 140 on a 24 ft shrimp boat. Great pulling motor and super quiet. Good on gas. I have a 200 SHO on a 20 ft Xpress. Very strong, quiet and fast. Not as good on gas as I hoped.
Well, after lots of research and thought
I ended up ordering a new 175 Suzuki
Hope to have installed in a couple of weeks
Thanks everyone for all of your input
I am sure this will be a great motor for us to enjoy for many years to come
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Good choice John. Will save you lots in gas and won't look like a Mosquito fogger when you first fire it up. Just go through the breakin process then change the oil. Here is the company I use for oil and other parts. Great schematics source as well. They have great setups for running Nema2000 gauges including pigtales, as well as kits for impellers.
https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/microfiche.asp
Suzuki encourages owners to service their motors. They produce online videos on how to do everything and publish it to YouTube. Pretty cool.
My dealer is only a few miles from me. I keep him up to date on my motor. I change oil & filter, winterize it, in the fall. One thing that wasn't mentioned was how quiet they run. Never had a motor so quiet. John, I think you will really like it, good for you guys.
I am about half deaf and could NOT hear my Suzuki 90 running at idle. I stepped to the dock and left it runnin more than once because I thought it was off.
The first year i had it, we gassed up before daylight and fished Ouachita TIL dark, mostly trolling for stripers. I stopped and filled it up again to see how much gas it used ... just a tick over one gallon. I had that boat over three years and never did a thing other than the annual service on the motor.
I think youll be tickled with a Suzuki. Most of the striper guides here run them, same at Texoma.
thanks rich, I added that site to my favorites for future use.
did they recommend you have the dealer do the first few oil changes to maintain the warranty? Or just do it yourself.
I never had a problem doing things myself, but want to make sure in case any issues arise.
I will ask the dealer when I get it , but appreciate any input.
I let my dealer do the maintenance, he is reasonably priced and fairly close. He uses car quest oil because he says it’s the only one that meets the specs beside Suzuki oil.
ive left mine running while fishing more than once. I had a client last week that was reeling in a striper when he asked if I was going to turn the motor off.... Lol... Literally the loudest thing about it is the pee stream hitting the water.
John,
Doing your own oil changes will not void the warrenty. What dealership are you using? I might have to add them to my list of local places to turn in case I need something.
Oil is funny. I think all these manufacturers do this for a reason: You will notice that Suzuki runs a 10w 40 oil. Yamaha is a 10w 30 oil. Mercury is an oddball like 10w 25 or something like that. So you simply cannot go and buy another brand of oil and have it work. Back in the early 2000's, Yamaha snowmobile section got in to a huge deal regarding oil and warrenties. I person had a snow machine explode. When he went to get service work, Yamaha said it was NOT under warrenty because they did NOT use Yamalube oil. According to their paperwork (at that time) Yamaha said that they "required" the usage of Yamalube in the warrenty would be voided.
The person took them to court. The court concluded that Yamaha (nor any other company) could make this requirement and statement unless they could prove that their oil was superior to any other oil on the market. Obviously, they could not. As a result, these companies started skirting this by requiring you use oil that meets certain requirements. Those requirements included proprietary addatives that only their companies use in their oils.
I took the liberty of cross checking Suzuki oil with other oils on the market (castrol, penzoil, Yamalube, and Amsoil to name a few) and none of them had the correct addatives list required. This is the reason I have stuck with the Suzuki brand oils. The way I saw it, this investment was not worth saving a couple of bucks on oil. The only reason I was trying to find an alternative was because I did not have a local Suzuki dealership. This was when I found Brown's and decided to purchase multiple years.
Suzuki did change brands with regards to their lower unit oil. It is the exact same thing as the original suzuki oil just rebranded.
Your break in time should be 10 hours. After that, they request that you change the oil, filter, and lower unit oil. This is primarily because they utilize a heavier viscosity oil for the break in period. After you change the oil, turn your key to the on position. Once the alarm goes off, pull your Kill switch lanyard and then pull the button in and out three times. This will reset the oil indicator light as well as the hours. As I said, the oil change service will come at at 10 hours. After you perform the reset (as stated above) it will change it to 100 hrs!
I was rereading Speir Fishing's post. Please don't take the above as "know it all". I did not cross reference every oil on the market to see if the specs were met. I will however check the stuff he mentioned though as I can source it locally. Thanks for the infor Speir!!!
John,
I also recommend installing a 10 micron filter inline from your fuel tank to the motor. Although Suzuki does have a small cartridge style filter inside the motor cowel, I still would but in a 10 micron inline just to be safe.
A couple of other things to note. The pee hole at the back will be adjustable. I adjust mine so that I can see the stream from the captains chair to ensure it is working. It will rotate 360 degrees. After you use the motor, there is built up pressure above the impeller. Many people have cold seeze issues and frozen pee holes because of this ( on all sorts of motors). You however are lucky. That rotating pee cap can be popped off. When you get to the dock, prior to transporting home, run the motor all the way down. This will allow lower unit water behind the prop to drain. While this is draining, remove the pee cap. Once done, unscrew your clean water flush port. It is located on the port side of the motor. This will relieve the pressure built up above the impellor and allow any water to drain out of the freshwater flush plug and the pee hole. Go about your stuff with readying your boat for transport. Before leaving, screw the cap back on and pop the pee cap back in. I have also been know to blow out any residual water.
Trust me, if you don't do this when the weather is cold, it WILL freeze up on you. Since I added the above to my take out procedures, I have not had the issue since. If you do run in to the issue, do not fear. Remove the pee cap. Take a small socket extension (1/4 inch drive) and heat it with a lighter and stick it in the hole. Continue to do this and it will melt the ice.
You will love the motor. I surely do! Just a few tricks to perform and if you get used to them you will never have an issue. Trust me, I've left my motor running on more than one occasion as it is way too quite!!! My kicker motor (yamaha) is also quite but not near as quite as my Suzuki!
Let me know if you need anything else. I've done all the maintenance and labor on mine from impeller changes to prop changes and everything in between. Had one interesting thing during service this year. A rubber "Thing" fell out of the motor cowell. I had no idea where it came from and how it went back in. I went to Brown's, pulled a skematic, and quickly found that it is a diverter in the top section of the motor to divert air for the air induction. Once I saw it, I saw how it went in!!!