Thread: Stator/ rectifier output

Originally Posted by huntersdad

The battery is brand new, well to me anyway but has a production date of may 22. I charged it overnight and unplugged it and went straight to the lake. The rectifier is regulated I assume, it's water cooled. I'm going to purchase a starting only battery and separate my electronics from it since that could be part of the issue. I'm running 3 helix units, mega live w/target lock the heading sensor and the occasional radio. I was just thinking that on my volt meter, I could see how much voltage was being put in the battery by the charging system instead of just the battery voltage itself. Is there a way to check that? I'd like to know how many volts are going in the battery from the rectifier throughout the different rpm ranges if it's possible.

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You would need a DC current clamp meter to monitor that. If you borrow or buy one, make sure it measures DC current, it's not a common feature, but AC current is.

Originally Posted by Chuck Adams

Red Flag…Now what??
As I wrote a couple post back
Put new battery, stator and rectifier on buddies 1994 Johnson/Evinrude and NOW it is charging 17.2 volts. Pegging out volt meter on dash.
I would have thought it was the meter but the Garmin on the console is also reading 17.2 volts.
He has that unit wired to start battery. Don’t know why!!
I think he has a bad rectifier but who knows since it was new also.
Any thought will be appreciated.
Not trying to hijack the thread.
Chuck.


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That's what I was referring to earlier as an unregulated charging system. They do not shut off charging current.

CDI makes some retrofit regulators, look through their catalog and see if they have one that fits his model.

Originally Posted by huntersdad

The battery is brand new, well to me anyway but has a production date of may 22. I charged it overnight and unplugged it and went straight to the lake. The rectifier is regulated I assume, it's water cooled. I'm going to purchase a starting only battery and separate my electronics from it since that could be part of the issue. I'm running 3 helix units, mega live w/target lock the heading sensor and the occasional radio. I was just thinking that on my volt meter, I could see how much voltage was being put in the battery by the charging system instead of just the battery voltage itself. Is there a way to check that? I'd like to know how many volts are going in the battery from the rectifier throughout the different rpm ranges if it's possible.

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Connect your VOM directly (set to DC volts) to the battery and monitor it at different RPMs.

Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

Connect your VOM directly (set to DC volts) to the battery and monitor it at different RPMs.

This is how I was testing over the weekend. At both idle and WOT the max I could get at the battery was 12.8v, as soon as I come off plane it drops down to around 12.3 Only thing I can think of is that due to the size battery and being a deep cycle that it is just going to take alot of running to put anything back in the battery. I'm going to get a group 24 starting battery and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise I'll be contacting CDI because both the stator and rectifier are still under warranty.I just don't know if the stator or Rectifier could be possibly losing voltage due to temperature rise at higher RPM. I'm getting good voltage out of the stator while testing at the house but can't really test it under a load

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Originally Posted by huntersdad

This is how I was testing over the weekend. At both idle and WOT the max I could get at the battery was 12.8v, as soon as I come off plane it drops down to around 12.3 Only thing I can think of is that due to the size battery and being a deep cycle that it is just going to take alot of running to put anything back in the battery. I'm going to get a group 24 starting battery and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise I'll be contacting CDI because both the stator and rectifier are still under warranty.I just don't know if the stator or Rectifier could be possibly losing voltage due to temperature rise at higher RPM. I'm getting good voltage out of the stator while testing at the house but can't really test it under a load

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CDI makes some good equipment but I would be suspecting the rectifier/regulator. I use to work on them but my memory is shot. You might try the forum at iBoats and ask them. Some real sharp people on that site.

Purchased a group 24, 1000 mca battery tonight. Gonna put it on charge and try this weekend. Hopefully this resolves the issue but if not I will be looking into the regulator/rectifier

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Think I'm all set. Took out the boat today and put all electronics on the deep cycle and just the boat equipment ( aerator, radio, and bilge) on the cranking battery and all seems to be working fine. Boat maintained 14v at just above idle speed. Now just have to figure how to keep the deep cycle charged while on the water.

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If issues persist, I highly recommend you to call CDI directly. Great people to deal with, and they will be happy to work with you.
They really know their stuff, and proudly stand behind it. Far superior to the original stock stuff.
I replaced my stator and rectifier (They should always be replaced together, IMHO) about 3 or 4 years ago, and I could not be happier.

Originally Posted by huntersdad

Think I'm all set. Took out the boat today and put all electronics on the deep cycle and just the boat equipment ( aerator, radio, and bilge) on the cranking battery and all seems to be working fine. Boat maintained 14v at just above idle speed. Now just have to figure how to keep the deep cycle charged while on the water.

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Here's the answer - This one is called an Echo Charge, other versions call it a Battery combiner, whatever, same process. Automatically, when Battery #1 (Starter) reaches full charge, it starts charging Battery #2 (Trolling, etc.). Will not drain Battery #1 in any way. Common on yachts, houseboats, motor homes, etc. Several videos on YouTube go in detail.
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