Thread: Motor cut out and then died

Originally Posted by gunwhatgun

I concur 100%. I have never seen a reed valve stick closed, honestly I've never seen one stuck, they usually get weak over time and you develop idle issues and exhaust blowing back onto the carb, but with the information given, that is all I can think of. Now seeing as that is all I can think of and knowing the simplest answer is usually the correct one, I'd say your pull starter has an issue. Take it off and see if the engine doesn't turn over then. When it does, pull your rope while the starter is off the engine and see if it is stuck, Then you can chase down why it died on you.

Yep. If I were a betting man I'd say it's worn (or loose) where it interchanges with the shift lever. While removing the plugs you happened to move the motor and allowed it to get in "start" position and the starter turned.

Does this motor have the shifter in the throttle handle?

Originally Posted by scout-j-m

I'd pop the recoil start assembly off and try to turn it over by wrapping a rope around the flywheel. If it does turn freely by hand then this should work and if it does will tell you its a lockout feature malfunction on the recoil starter.

I have a 94 model Mercury 25....its remote model but should have the same lockout. On mine, it's that spring loaded pawl on the starter as seen in the pic.

Attachment 435574


Attachment 435575

I looked at mine and this does not engage the flywheel until it is at full forward throttle.

Originally Posted by MDCrappie

Yep. If I were a betting man I'd say it's worn (or loose) where it interchanges with the shift lever. While removing the plugs you happened to move the motor and allowed it to get in "start" position and the starter turned.

Does this motor have the shifter in the throttle handle?

Yes the shfter is in the handle. Gonna go try some of the suggestions now.

So I think I found the problem, but I have no idea what to do next. The issue seems to be with the "power" switch that has to be on to start the motor. If it is "on" the rope stops after about a foot. Off and it pulls like it should. So it is probably some safety feature gone haywire, but I don't know what. The wiring all looks great, nothing frayed or broken.

That's your kill switch. It grounds the ignition when "off". Follow the leads from it and they should go to ground and then to switch box. That should not effect the starter, but could be reason why motor "died". Pull both leads off and see what happens.

That just kills the motor by grounding the ignition system. Its purely electrical and has no mechanical features like limiting the recoil starter.

The whole thing just makes no sense to me. I guess I will have to take it to a shop and pay a few hundred bucks.

Originally Posted by superdave1984

The whole thing just makes no sense to me. I guess I will have to take it to a shop and pay a few hundred bucks.

It's actually pretty hard to talk someone thru a repair when you do things haphazardly. First you say the sparks plugs make the difference, then it's the kill switch.
Trouble shooting has to be methodical. When you said it was spark plugs, did you do as I suggested and try individually? Also when you then said it was kill switch (you called it power switch) did you try removing the connections on the block and switchbox as I suggested?